1968 Buick GS400, matching numbers

1968 Buick Other GS Additional Info:

Car Sells To US Only,,,,,,,Please disregard ships to line above,,,,,,Car Sold to US Only,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,I have decided after about 10 years of ownership to sell my 1968 buick GS400. I don't know how so many cars for sale on Ebay aredescribed in 5 lines or less but thats not how I do things. Sopleaseexcuse the length of my add, I will start witha shorterdescriptionof what I think is important and if you aregenuinelyinterested in it you can choose to get yourself comfortable and continue reading. The car is a 1968 buick GS400, It was born a GS400, not a clone. It still wears most of its original gold/green paint, blackvinyl top, with black bucket seatinterior with center console. It has its original 400ci motor with matching vin number on it, with all originalcomponents,Carburetor, air cleaner, manifolds, valve covers, etc. It has its original number matching TH400 3spd automatic trans. And its original rear which is a 10 bolt Limited Slip Posi Traction rear. It has power steering and power drum brakes, If you read on you will see the car has recently had a lot of new parts and upgrades. It runs and drives verynicel, sounds great, and with theexceptionof the clock, virtually everything on the car works as it should from the lights right down to theannoying key buzzer, wiper, horn, fan, heat, etc. I never tried the windshieldsquirter because I never put fluid in the bottle.The center console storage compartment is stuck shut, needs a new clasp. The paint is as you would expect for its age. It has its share of small ding, worn spots, and stains and what some people would call patina. It has a back in the day fender bender repair on the front passenger fender where the paint was blended. And a couple of touched up spots from other small repairs that I did. they are explained further on. The original vinyl top is in very nice condition with theexception of a very small (about the size of a dime) spot that seem to be a rust blister started at the bottom of the back window and a place where the vinyl just pulled away from the glue on the body. The chrome and stainless is generally also in very presentable condition but not perfect, the rear bumper has some places down low where the chrome has blisters in it from rust. The glass is all good except for a couple of very small chips in thewindshiel, not cracks or fish eyes just small white chips. and one rear side window has a light scratch in it. The interior is in great condition, beautiful dash, headliner, door panels etc, The only negatives would be acouple of cracks in the steering wheel. and the plastic chrome behind the arm rests. It still has its original carpet in awesome shape that still had the datedmanufacturer sticker on it. And very important and significant is the lack of rust issues on this car. If you read on you will find I did three very small repairs ( properly). but the car has perfect born with floors, fram, trunk floor, door skins inner door frames, rocker, inner fender wells, All original panels and all original pinch welds, etc. Just some minor surface rust, the floors still have most factory undercoat. I will try to show condition in photos. It is a real un bastardized survivor muscle car withprotect plate, build card, and original paperwork, Even still has it T3 headlamps, I am pricing the car just below what isconsidered (average selling price) for what I would consider an above average car with somereluctancy feeling I will never be able to replace it at this price for car with this kind of integrity. You can read on for more detaildescription. .,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I purchased the car in all original condition withapproximately 51000 miles showing on the odometer, it now shows 54900 miles. When I purchased it I felt it was likely actual miles based on many factors but I do not know what theactual miles are. Not that it in any waytrulydocumentsactual miles but the two oil change stickers from a BP station in PA where showing what appears to be 37000 miles in 1987 and 50000 miles in 1989, I purchased the car approx 2006 with 51000 plus miles after it had been owned by another person as a potential restorationuntil he lost his garage to a divorce. I bought the car like so many others because I really loved the colors and the body style. The car was in basically all original condition. What I did when I first purchased the car: I replaced the exhaust with a 2 1/2 inchflow master dual exhaust system with Delta flow mufflers, I replaced the original buick mags 14X6, with reproduction 14X7 wheels and new lug nuts toaccommodate new BFgoodrich 70series radials., I installed a nice high power am/ fm CDstereo system with 2 6x9 speakers in the rear package tray. I replaced the heater core and all the hoses, and replaced the original copper radiator with an aluminum one, It didn't leak but looked a little green in spots. I replaced the seatupholstery with new pre sewn kit from UPI. ( bottom of back seat is still original) I removed and re-installed the (original carpet) and painted the un rusted floors with oil based paint to keep them that way. I replaced the battery tray. I made three small rust repairs, a 2in rust hole at the bottom rear of each front fender and a very small rust area over the pass rear wheel on the outside quarter panel, the work was done properly by cutting out the rust and grafting new metal in its plac, mig welded without any overlaps, and primed and blended into the original paint with enamel. you can see the blend over the rear wheel but it is not outstanding. the metal work did not involve any factory overlaps or pinch welds. I added the blackrally stripe along the bottom as per pictures I have seen, it did not come from the factory but wasapparentlyavailable on these cars. I couldn't resist because it looks so nice with it.I detailed the motor and tuned it up with correct date code spark plug wires. I did whatever services where needed and drove the car occasionally in good weather only for 10 years adding about 3000 miles. I always kept it in my heated garage when not in use. Itried to keep true to the way the car was born and originality and did notbastardize it in any way. I was going to repaint i, but have so far resisted in keeping with the popular " there only original once" theory. And because people seem toappreciate how it where's its age.I kept everything original to the car that I removed, I have the originalradiator with tag, and the original 14x6 rims in presentable condition, the original working radio and bezel. ( dash was not cut ). I even kept the original factor date code spark plug wires. and the original manual master cylinder. I went through the brakes and replaced shoes, wheelcylinders and all the metal lines with theexception of the front. I drove the car to local cruise ins and shows and anoccasional weekend ride for years without issue. The car is very user friendly and comfortable with nice highway gears, and sounds like a tug boat. It gets far more attention and compliments than many cars I have owned in the past. Fast forward to the last 6 months. I decided to show the car some love and do a couple of things I was thinking about for a while. The trunkfloor wasthoroughly cleaned of surface rust from part of the original (rot free) trunk floor and sealed with a rust preventing incapsulator primer, and was refinished with the proper black aqua spatter paint and put 2 coats of clear on it. A new trunk matt was installed toprotect it. The brakes where then upgraded from manual drum to power drum, The car still has its original aluminum finned front drums. The fluid in the rear differential was replaced, and a complete fluid and filter gasket service on thetrans. was done. While test driving the car I started to hear slight lifter tap. Removed the valve covers and ran the motor to find two things. One was a pushrod with less travel and was not spinning like it should, and the other was a very small blob of antifreeze in the head. Here is where you buick guys will probably know what was wrong. Of course it needed a new cam shaft, I always ran ZDP in the oil but I guess the last owner didn't. And so Ijoineda buick forum on line and learned far more than I wanted to about the 1968 buick 400 motor. Where the heads are known to sometimes leak anti freeze between the valve springs. Most buick people opt to replace the heads with a different year. I wanted to keep the car as original. So I found a used head in good condition from a 1968 buick GS400. I also learneda lotabout the oiling systems in these motors and how if the cam bearings wear, which the front one often would it starves the oil from the top left cylinder head. The motor was removed from the car, was taken apart down to the short block. I did not dis assemble the lower end, only removed pan and cleanedeverything.It wasvisuallyinspected and everything cleaned and the cylinders had no ridges and if you lookedclosely you could see remnants of hone marks. ????? and it was evident that the heads where also redone as per the valve guides and seals. It also had a metal timing gear as opposed to a nylon one, So at some point it seems the motor was rebuilt. After much learning from the buickfolk, The motor was re assembled with a new slight performance cam from a place called TA performance. and the usedcylinder head which also hadevidence of being redone in the past with replacement valve guides,, and I pressure checked it and I replaced the cam bearings with an upgradedperformance set that are re-engineered to improve lubrication to the cam and upper end, I replaced the timing gears and chain, the lifters, the rocker shafts, the water pump,and of course all the gaskets and seals from top to bottom. The proper assembly lube was used and the motor broken in with Brad Penn break in oil at 2200 rpm for approx. 30 minutes,,changingthe oil filterimmediately afterand then replaced the oil with Brad Penn 10-30 race oil and a couple of ounces of ZDP for assurance. I ran the motor again without the valve covers and made sure ofplenty of oil flow and no issues. A bostch after market under dashgauge set was installed to monitor what was going on and I have been driving it approx 150-200 miles, It sounds good and runs good and has around 45+pounds oil pressure when cold and around 35 - 40 pounds hot driving depending on speed, and goes a little lower at idle. I also put a brand newexide battery in it. Motor is runningbetween 180 to 190 degrees temp. No ticking, no knocking, no smoke, no leaks. Why so much info you might ask? Because this is what I would want to know if I was considering a car. I really can't believe some of the shortdescriptions some people have. I am a "Do unto others as you would have done to yourself" kind of guy and take passing the torch seriously. I should only wish that adescription would be thisthorough on something I wanted to buy. And I find most people would find value in it.I expect that the car is good to go at this point but of course like any old machine the only thing I canguarantee is the honest words in mydescription and nothing more. These cars are starting to get noticed and are climbing in value, This is a very solid car with integrity and well worth taking to the next level ofrestoration. I am only considering selling it because like many old car guys my mind and soul want to keep it but my bodydoesn'tagree do to health and injury issues. It is rare to find these cars in this condition, although it needs a nice paint job and some other detail, in comparison it would be very easy to turn it into a true show car. I feel this car has genuine investment potential, Those ofyou who know the value of an un rusted car, know this would be a perfect car to further restore. I am seeing most muscle cars of the era being sold in the form of a carcus in this price range.Thanks for your consideration, I guess if you finished reading this you have someinterest. And one more thing, I do not play games with an auction. I decide what is the least I want for somethin, I make it known by way of No Reserve. And I do not have friends or relatives placing bids like it seems so many do. Thank You. If you still have anyspecific questions pleasereal free to ask.
Car comes with copy of originalpurchase papers from certificate of title from 68. Original owner protection book with Protecto plate. buick dealer accessory booklet. A production broadcast or build sheet from under seat missing a small corner. Original owners manual. Original GM key envelope with brand new looking extra set of GM keys. Original carpet tag. and some emission info paperwork.
Car has new or almost new.:,,,,,,,High performance cam bearings.Lifters'rocker shafts.water pump,Cam Shaft,Timing gears and chain set.Spark plugs,New and original Date code spark plug wires,Air filter,air cleaner lidAluminum Radiator.Fan belts,hoses,Heater core,coolant,Oil filte, Brad penn race oil,complete gasket seal s,Power brake booster and master cylinder,Most steel brake lines,14x7 rims, chrome lug nuts,BF Goodrich tires,Brake shoes,wheel cylinders,trunk matt,trans service,rear service,AM/FM CD,seatupholstery,Battery tray,Complete dual exhaust,rear air shocks,Front shocks,Power steering pressure hose,Quality high energy Exide battery,Bosch under dashgaugeset,Flex plate,Thermostat,
For the possibility of a Puristrestoration,,Car comes with: Original radiator and tag, Original 14X6 wheels, Original radio andbezelfor dash, Original manual brake master cylinder, Original proper date code spark plug wires that where still on the car in good condition,Complete original bumper jack and lug wrench and spare wheel,Car is sold as-is condition with no secrets, noguarantees of any kind aside from honest present condition, I took many photos but I was only able to include 24, so Itried to show overall condition the best I could. I canforward pictures to interested buyer if Ebayallows it.The car is in a heated garage and can be there for up to 30 days for pickuparraignments but should be picked up as soon as possible. If you think that could be a problem contact me before bidding, The car will not leave the propertyuntil paid in full byeither bank transfer of cash in person. I will accept only the $400.00 deposit via Paypal. to be paid within 24 hours of auctions end . I canaccommodate an inspection in my garage before purchase. And I can try to help in any way I can with pickup. such as meeting a car hauler in a accessible place close to my home with proper advance notice. All cost associated with delivery is the buyers responsibility. I would not want to put anything in the trunk as to not damage anything and could try to stand the rear seat up and box the wheels and radiator if wanted and carefully fit them in if I can between the seats. If I am unable to that the buyer may opt out of them or pay to have them packaged and mailed. That would probably only benecessary with the rims. Please don't ask if the car can be driven home across the country without issue. Although Ihaveno reason to think it wouldn't ."I don't know" Most people in the old car hobby understand this. Again, the car is sold as-is condition like any other with the onlyguarantee being my honestdescription. Thank you for surviving my add.
Car sells to US only! Car comes with a clear NY stateregistration which is transferable proof of ownership. NYS cars older than 72 do not have titles. Agai, ,, Car Sells To US ONLY!I reserve the right to remove the add at any time as long as there are no bids on it.