1972 Triumph TR6 roadster

1972 Triumph TR-6 Additional Info:

I swore I'd never sell this car, but my MGA twincam project requires too much financial aid and space/time are unfortunately limited. The reserve on this car is very reasonable and I know this car will sell for below it's true value and much less that I have into it, and that's okay: It's paid me back with years of great old-school motoring. TRs are appreciating and represent a good investment, especially the pre-72s (small bumpers) and overdrive cars.

I bought this 1972 TR6 in 2005 as a restoration-in-progress: the body/frame came to me with all new body panels and new paint. The motor had been rebuilt but all the mechanical systems needed a complete restoration. I built the car up with an eye to originality, but also deviated for safety or reliability concerns (brakes, wiring, modern wheels/tires....)

I spent (easily) $24k on parts and services (all receipts available). Some highlights:

rebuilt front end with Nylatron bushings & new upper ball joints

Upgraded front brakes with popular Toyota calipers retrofit, new stock rotors

rebuilt rear brakes with new shoes and new slave cylinders

Goodparts springs, trailing arm brackets, steering rack brackets.

rebuilt lever shocks (to heavy duty spec)

Replace all U-joints (driveshaft and axels) and gaiters

Replaced all wheel bearings, front and rear

Differential mounts welded and rebuilt with strengthening kit

engine compartment:

all new wiring: Advanced Autowire powerblock (puts current and switching through electronic relays)

Rebuilt tranny with Type A overdrive added (quantum mechanics, about $2k)

New Luk clutch

new engine mounts

new clutch master and slave

new brake master cylinder

uprated 96amp GM alternator

new high torque Gustafson starter

New coil, plug wires, and rebuilt distributor with Pertronix (by Advanced Distributor)

New fuel/water pump

Rebuilt Strombergs

reconditioned radiator

Interior:

replaced carpet and panel sets and crash pads

chromed guage bezzles and rebuilt guages (Nisonger)

new Robbins top, professionally installed. Original boot and tonneau cover.

New seat diaphrams

New Tourist Trophy steering wheel

New window regulators (original windows, not perfect)

new hazard switch, battery tray, ashtray, bristleflex (the good stuff), door hardware, kidneypads

new plastic gearbox bellhousing cover, new seat belts, plastic glove box

'emergency' hood release mod installed

Body and frame:

I've never seen any evidence of rust other than some light surface rusting on the underside of the car. I've never had the sills apart myself, so I don't know the condition of the inner sill, but I've never seen any evidence of any rust in the sills. It's been stored indoors since I've owned it.

The paint is decent, probably a 7 or 8 out of ten (depending on your perspective) It is not a show winning paint job, but very nice as a driver. I get tons of compliments.

The original frame is in decent and straight, but not in remarkable condition. One of the outriggers has a reinforcement plate (prior to me) -- the other is solid. The body was never pulled from the frame when the previous owner did his restoration work so it's not a restored frame. Most of the frame has been protected by 40 years of oil.

blasted, repainted windshield frame with new gaskets & windshield glass

Practically brand new Panasport wheels with new Verdenstein Sport Classics. Perhaps 2000 miles on them.

In the last year, the car got:

Re-chromed original bumpers ($1500)

Panasports with Verdenstein tires ($1500)

A stainless exhaust silencer ($400)

Replaced the fuel tank w/ a new one.

You should know:

I never put in any interior lights, and there are no door light switches (although the wiring is all there)

I never put in door locks

there is no radio, speakers or antenna

I never sorted out the windshield washer fluid reservoir or pump.

When the body was redone, about 1/3 the driver's side floorplan had some sheet metal welded in place instead of using a replacement floorpan. It's solid, and seems to have no significance, but I'm trying to mention everything.

The rear horizontal deck should be painted black, and it's not: the car is 100% yellow. (personally, I like it)

'brake warning' light not functioning. Tried to diagnose, but figured it was a faulty switch.

The right-hand side view mirror was mounted an inch or two too far forward, and difficult to use, although it LOOKS correct that way (matches the driver's side....)

Cockpit control line for the heater valve control never installed. Can't remember why. Only driving in the summer?

I've now had the car on the road for over 10 years and logged well over 20,000 miles. The car is very strong and is a joy to drive. Motor makes lots of power goes very straight down the road, and the gearbox shifts very well, synchros are good, and the overdrive works perfectly, in both 3rd and 4th. At 65 or 70 it just hums along at a calm 2700 or so. I had the clutch throwout bearing carrier turned to match the bearing and now the clutch is silky smooth (they are famous for stiction issues). The car starts very reliably in any conditions, and has never let me down. It starts easily and even after dormant months, starts in a few seconds. I use the car strictly as a weekend joyride, often taking it 200 miles roundtrip up to Lime Rock over and over. It sounds great and makes a great impression wherever it goes. The motor makes about 60lbs of pressure at startup, and settles around 35 or so when warm at 1k rpm, and I'm running Rotella 15/50. All british cars leak a little oil, and this one does, too. When I park it in the garage, I put some cardboard under it to catch a few drops. It runs cool, and has never over-heated or even moved past the 1/2 way point on the gauge. When I did a compression test a few months ago it made between 150-160lbs in each cylinder. All lights an gauges work with the exception of those mentioned.

Now the 'other' stuff: this description is for informational purposes only. Vintage cars are tricky to sum up, and by all means, you should feel free to inspect and come to your own value conclusions. I am not likely to let you drive the car for liability reasons, but will be happy to drive you. Your bid is a commitment to buy, not your option to do so. The car is sold with a transferable registration, as pre-'73 NY vehicles don't get titles. The car is being sold as is/where is, with no warranty of any kind. I'm happy to help with a shipper of your choice. I have the car listed on a few platforms and reserve the right to end the auction early. Best of luck.