1964 64 Olds Oldsmobile Cutlass f85 442 455 High Performance Project

1964 Oldsmobile Cutlass Additional Info:

Here is a 1964 Oldsmobile F85 – Cutlass, factory 4 speed,ultra custom project car. I have beenworking on this car for quite a few years, but I have taken this project as faras I can. I just do not have the time northe money that it will take to finish this car anytime soon. The car was intended to be an ultra custom /highly modified, combination street / strip / show car. The car is an actual factory four speed car, witha console. It was built in Michigan. I was told that it was not a factory 442, butit did come with the right options to be a 442, including the ultra-highcompression 330 V8, four speed transmission and dual exhaust. I do not have the original engine nor the transmission.

DRIVETRAIN:

I had a 455 Oldsmobile engine professional built for thiscar; the details on the engine are listed below. I was going to stick to the 442 heritage andput a four speed transmission in the car, but I used the transmission onanother car, so THERE IS NO TRANSMISSION INCLUDED with this sale. I should have a stock driveshaft somewhere. I was also going to convert the car to ahydraulic clutch system, but I never made it that far. As such, there is no clutch linkage includedwith the car (No Z-bar, push rods, etc.).There is a set of clutch & brake pedals included.

There is a really impressive rear end included with thecar. The sale includes a Frankland Quick-Changedifferential that I had built specifically for this car. It has the best carrier they offered, thetorsen-gleeson, worm gear style posi unit.With no adjustment (using a 1:1 set of quick change gears), the final gearratio would be 4.10:1, but in less than 10 minutes, you can make the finaldrive ratio whatever you want. There area few sets of Quick-Change gears included with the sale. The rear end has never been used to drive thecar, so it is basically brand new (it does have grease in it).

CHASSIS:

The chassis has been significantly customised for thisproject. I started with your basicA-body frame (not the original frame, it was too rusted to reuse). The frame I used came from another 1964Cutlass 2-door coupe that I parted out a while back, but that frame was rustfree. I then boxed and channeled the centresections of the frame, added some strengthening plates over the front corners /seams (the weak areas located right under the firewall), and I narrowed therear frame rails so I could fit wider tires under the back. I added additional round tubing sections thatrun parallel to the centre sections, to give the frame additional strength throughthe middle. Those added tubes are alsoused to mount the custom transmission crossmember (the crossmember IS included). The front of the frame was custom scallopedso that the headers would fit without having to dent them. At this point, the frame could just use agood cleaning and a final coat of paint to make it ready for final assembly.

The front suspension and steering consists of tubular upperand lower A-arms that are set up for coil-over shocks & springs and the latemodel AFX taller type spindles that will improve the handling of the car. I do not have a set of front coil-over shocks& springs to go with the car; the front end has blocks of wood in place ofthe springs. There is a set of thetaller AFX style spindles included with the sale. They have been setup for a Wilwood Disc Brakekit. The steering was going to use ahigh performance AGR Steering Box, but I used that steering box on anotherproject. What is on the car right now isa non-power assisted, stock style steering box; THAT IS THE ONLY STEERING BOXINCLUDED. I was going to use aluminumrods with rod ends in place of tie-rods.I was also going to use a racing style KRC Power Steering Pump thatallows you to adjust the pressure / assistance.That steering setup (including the pump) is included with the car. Also included with the car is a new FlamingRiver Steering Column (still needs painted) and a new stainless steel steeringshaft with a new stainless steel steering U-joint.

The rear suspension was changed to ladder bar style, butinstead of using a diagonal bar, I designed a Watts Linkage setup for it, tomake it more streetable (the car won’t fight to stay straight while turning). The rear suspension includes a set of fullyadjustable QA1 coil-over shocks and springs. There is also a driveshaft safety loop builtinto the ladder bar front attachments.

BRAKES:

The front brakes for the car includes a new Wilwood Front Brakekit, which uses their four piston ultralite calipers (black) and cross-drilled,slotted rotors. The front brake kit hasbeen assembled and plumbed, but has never had brake fluid put into it. The rear brakes for the car include a WilwoodRear Disc Brake kit. The Wilwood kit forthe rear uses their four piston ultralite calipers (black) and cross-drilled,slotted rotors, which was selected to pair up with the Quick-Change rear end(big bearing Ford style). The kitincludes the integral parking brake, with the parking brake shoes hidden behindthe rotors. The rear brake kit has neverhad brake fluid put into it, so it is basically brand new too. I do not have any parking brake cables, butthe original parking brake pedal is included.

There is a new Wilwood aluminum dual reservoir mastercylinder included with the sale, which includes their Fully Adjustable Disc BrakeProportioning Valve kit (neither unit has had brake fluid put through themyet). The proportioning valve has threeoutlets (front left, front right and rear).I designed the brake system so that there are three flexible brake lines(included) that go from the proportioning valve outlets to a set of fluidblocks. The fluid blocks get bolted ontothe frame. Out of the fluid blocks,there are 3/16” stainless steel brake lines, custom bent to the four corners ofthe car. There are then flexible braidedstainless hoses included that would go to each of the four calipers.

The brake system is probably 99% complete, with just somemiscellaneous odds and ends needed to finish it. I planned on putting two AutoMeter gauges inthe instrument panel; one for the front brakes and one for the rear brakes, butI did not plumb in those two gauges yet.

BODY:

The body is in pretty good condition for a car from 1964. The front fenders that are on the car are100% rust free! There is also a secondset of fenders included that are “mostly” rust free. There are three inner fenders (a complete setplus one extra) and they are also rust free.There are two hoods included with the car. The hood on the car in the pictures is rustfree, but it does have a large hole cut in the centre of it. I originally had an Edelbrock Victor intake manifoldon the car (that manifold is long gone now), so I had to cut a hold in the hoodfor air filter clearance. The secondhood that comes with the car is completely stock. It is also rust free, but it does have asmall, very manageable dent in the front.There is also a set of stock hood hinges included with the car.

The front core support is in excellent condition, with norust. I was going to turn the two innerheadlights into ram air style air intakes, so that is what the aluminum partsare in the pictures. I also havenumerous factory sheet metal grille “surrounds” that bolt to the fenders, andtwo sheet metal bumper filler panels; all are in good usable condition (they willneed sanded).

I had the rear wheel tubs professionally “mini-tubbed” and acustom trunk floor fabricated for it. Allof that sheet metal was rough fitted / welded into the car and I have since takenit to a 90% complete level. The weldsneed a little finishing and then some grinding / smoothing. The trunk floor was designed to accommodatethe aluminum fuel cell, which has an integral electric fuel pump. There is a “well” built into the trunk floorfor the fuel lines to pass through and into the trunk, but I haven’t installed /purchased the fittings (bulkheads) for those fuel lines yet.

As you can see in the pictures, the car needs a new floorpan installed, but not because the original floor pan was rusted away. I originally did some custom sheet metal workto the floor, in the section where the rear passengers’ feet would go. That was done to make clearance for theshackles for the ladder bars, but I wasn’t happy with how that turned out, so Ibought a new single piece, factory style floor pan, which is also included inthe sale.

The bad news on the body…it obviously needs a new floor paninstalled (but the new floor pan is included).There are some pin holes in the usual places, but nothing extreme. I do not have a cowl vent panel to go withthe car, but they are remanufactured and not very expensive. The deck lid that is currently on the car isin poor condition. There is no “rot”,but there are numerous rust holes. Agood body-man could fix it, but it will need some work. The worst part of the body…the car was instorage for quite a few years and mice made a nest inside the upper cowl /windshield wiper-motor hole. As you canimagine, the mouse pee put a few decent sized rust holes in the cowl. It’s fixable, but I have to mention it.

The good news…the main rocker panels are clean, inside andout. The rear rockers are clean on theinside and only a few very small, very workable pinholes on the outside. The firewall is in good shape. The A-pillars, C-pillars and roof are all ingood shape. The front and rearwindshield channels are both good. Thedoors are in decent usable condition.

GLASS:

I have all the glass for the car; front windshield, rearwindshield, door glass, quarter windows and wing windows. There are multiple good front and rear windshieldsincluded. There is one complete set ofwing windows & frames, plus one extra wing window & frame. The chrome on all the wing window frames isin decent driver condition. The quarterwindows, window regulators and tracks are still in the body. The door glass, regulators and tracks havebeen removed from the doors that are on the car. There are multiple sets of door glassincluded, but no regulators or window tracks.There are multiple window cranks included that are all in variousconditions.

TRIM:

There are three bumpers included in the sale; two frontbumpers and one rear bumper. The rear bumperis completely stock and would be a good candidate for rechroming. The one front bumper is completely stock andwould also make a good core for rechroming.The second front bumper is a custom style that I was working on. I increased the size of the centre opening andI was planning on putting a big oil cooler in that hole (oil cooler NOTincluded). The holes for the bumpercarriage bolts were all welded closed and I put all-thread on the inside of thebumper for mounting the bumper brackets (a much cleaner look). The front turn signal holes were going to beconverted to air intakes (brake cooling ducts?), and the turn signals weregoing to be relocated to amber “halos” on the headlights. The Bumper Boyz rechromed it, but they didn’tdo a very good job, so I was going to have a local chrome shop redo it (you canstill see my welds). There are multiplesets of front and rear bumper brackets included.

There is one very good condition grille included, three setsof good condition head light bezels and more headlight buckets than I couldcount. I do have the chrome “eyebrows”that go on the front fenders (above the headlights); they are in good drivercondition, but should be rechromed. Ihave three sets of rear taillight lenses, three sets of rear taillight bezels,three sets of taillight buckets and multiple sets of taillight retainers. I have two rear panels that say “OLDSMOBILE”;they are both in “ok” to “good” condition.I do have a few sets of front and rear stainless steel windshieldmolding. I also have multiple sets ofdoor handles that are in various conditions.There is one hood spear in fair condition; I planned to get rid of itanyway. I believe I have a set of“OLDSMOBILE” letters for the front of the hood, but they need rechromed. I also have two good sets of stainless steel trimfor a painted roof, or possible a landau roof.

I do not have any rocker panel moldings, nor do I have thestainless trim that ran from the front to rear of the car along the tops of thefenders & doors. I intended toeliminate that stainless trim and fill in the mounting holes. There is also no drip rail molding, but thedrip rails themselves are still in good condition.

WHEELS & TIRES:

The wheels that are included with the car are custom offset (frontand rear) American Racing, Torq Thrust II wheels. The rear wheels are 17”x11” polished aluminumand they were custom made to work with the Quick-Change rear end. They were designed to have an extremely deepdish, to give the car an aggressive look.The front wheels are 17”x9.5” polished aluminum that were custom made towork with the Wilwood front disc brake kit.The tires that are on the wheels are Goodyear Eagle F1, GSD3 (no longerin production). The rear tires are 315/35-17and the front tires are 275/40-17. Thetires and wheels do not have a single mile on them.

INTERIOR:

The interior includes a set of new black carpet (still inthe box) and a new white headliner (still in the box). There is a rear seat upper section and lowersection; they are both black and in very good condition (will not needrecovered). There is an original blackdash pad and an original black glovebox door that are both in excellentcondition (they don’t remake dash pads, last time I checked). I do have a set of interior courtesy lighthousings. The bows for the headliner arestill in the car. There is also a set ofbrand new, still in the sealed bag, black door panels included with the car.

There is also a very nice, custom-made instrument panel thatis set up with AutoMeter gauges. Thereis a 5” memory tach, a 5” 0-200 mph speedometer, 2-5/8” mechanical gaugesincluding oil pressure, oil temp, water pressure, water temp, fuel pressurewith isolator, fuel tank level, volts, brake pressure (front), brake pressure(rear), nitrous (future plan). There isalso a place for a vacuum gauge, but that gauge broke a while ago. The instrument panel also includes an AutoMetershift light. Also included are somesmall green lights for turn signal indicators, a small blue light for high beamindicator and a few idiot lights.

What is not included with the interior…front bucketseats. I was going to use a set ofhigh-backed, carbon fibre racing seats, but they are not included. They can be had for an additional price, butI figured most people wouldn’t want them anyway. I don’t have a steering wheel, nor kickpanels, door grabs / arm rests, inner quarter panels, rear sail panels, packagetray, glove box, centre console, heater box (neither the engine side nor theinterior side), but I do have multiple sets of heater controls. I don’t have the interior ductwork for thedefrosters. There are probably someother odds and ends that are still needed (interior work was still pretty faroff in the distance).

ELECTRICAL:

I have nothing; sorry.You will need to supply a painless wiring kit, or they remanufacture thestock style wiring harnesses.

ENGINE:

The engine is a 455 and was taken from a 1975 OldsmobileToronado and was professionally rebuilt.The block was hot tanked, decked, line honed, then bored 0.030” over,making it 461 cubic inches. The entirerotating and reciprocating assembly was professionally balanced. The engine was not dyno-ed, but my enginebuilder estimated the power to be around 650 BHP. The pistons I chose had an advertised compressionratio of 11.5:1, but with the block work and the heads I chose, the staticcompression ratio is closer to 12:1. Theengine runs strong, is extremely loud, with a rough lopey idle, and I have onlyever run racing gas in it. The engine isbroken in, but it has never been used to actually move the car (the projectnever made it that far). I was in theprocess of converting the engine to throttle body EFI / an electric fuel pump,so there are actually two fuel pumps included with the car.

The engine parts include the following:

Arias / Mondello Forged Aluminum Pistons – 11.5:1 AdvertisedCompression Ratio – Fully Balanced

File-Fit Piston Rings – Fully Balanced

Stock reconditioned Connecting Rods with ARP fasteners –Fully Balanced

Stock Crankshaft – Fully Balanced

Stock Harmonic Dampener – Fully Balanced

Shaffer Aluminum Flywheel – Fully Balanced

Main Bearing Strengthening Caps

ARP main studs & nuts

Clevite77 Main and Rod Bearings, std/std size

Mondello Windage Tray

Melling High Volume Oil Pump

Remote Oil Filter Adaptor

Oil Restrictors to top end installed in block

Milodon 9 qt. Oil Pan with Deep Sump Oil Pickup

Milodon “noisy” Gear Drive Timing Set

Crower Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft – Part No. 56272

Comp-Cams Hydraulic Lifters

Comp-Cams oversized Pushrods

Mondello Valley Pan / Intake Manifold Splash Guard

Harland-Sharp Aluminum Full Roller Rockers 1.6:1 Ratio

Jomar Aluminum Valve Train Stud Girdles

Edelbrock Assembled out-of-box stock Aluminum Heads, PushrodGuides, Valve Springs & Valves

ARP Head Studs and Nuts

Fabricated Sheet Aluminum Valve Covers

Mondello Stainless Steel Long Tube Headers

Four Barrel Single Plain Intake Manifold

Multiple Style Air Filters

Holley Mechanical Fuel Pump

Mondello High Performance Aluminum Water Pump

March Serpentine Pulley & Bracket Set – Black

KRC Adjustable Pressure Power Steering Pump

Felpro Engine Gasket Set

MSD Billet Distributor

Accel 8.8 mm Plug Wires (yellow)

Lakewood Scatter Shield with Block Protector Plate

Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch Kit – 26 spline clutch disc

Full 316 Stainless Steel 3” Exhaust System, with glass packs– exits straight out the back of the car.

Aeromotive Aluminum Fuel Cell (trunk mounted, new / neverhad fuel in it)

Aeromotive In-Tank Safety Sponge (NHRA Approved)

Aeromotive In-Tank Electric Fuel Pump (new / never run)

Aeromotive In-Tank Sending Unit (new / never wired)

Stainless Steel -AN fuel supply and return lines, bothinstalled / run inside the frame.

MISSING ENGINE / DRIVETRAIN PARTS:

The engine is in good condition / running order, but thereare some parts that I stole / no longer have.You will need to supply the following major parts to get the enginerunning again.

Four Barrel 4150 style Carburetor (recommend 750 or 850 cfm)or Throttle Body EFI System

MSD 6AL Ignition Box

Ignition Coil

Starter Motor (will need to be a high torque unit because ofthe high compression ratio)

Radiator

Fan (Electric or Mechanical)

Remote Oil Filter Mounting Kit

Oil Cooler

Fuel Pressure Regulator

Fuel Filter

Transmission

Clutch Linkage (Z-bar, push rods, etc.)

That is about it. Ihave tried to be as descriptive as possible, but keep in mind, this is a highlycustomised project car that has spanned many years. I’m sure that there are little odds and endsI have forgotten to mention (little things that you will need and other thingsthat are included). Please ask questionsregarding anything you think I missed, or things that you would like to knowmore about.