INCLUDES NEW INTERIOR, MOST EXTERIOR CHROME RECHROMED, ENGINE/TRANS FOR REBUILD

1956 Mercury Montclair 2 Dr Convertible Additional Info:

For sale is a 1956 Mercury Montclair 2 Door Convertible project car, Model 76B. This was the top-of-the-line Mercury in 1956 and was relatively rare with a production number of 7,762. I bought the car in 2011 from an Auto-Roundup ad. as a rolling shell with the full original existing interior as you see it pictured for $7,500. I had the complete, new interior that you see fabricated in 2012 by Ron Murray in Philadelphia. Mr. Murray was probably the most renowned fabricator of 50's Ford and Mercury interiors over many years. The original complete interior is still in the car. I recently acquired all of the rechromed bumper and trim parts that you see in the ad. I also acquired the engine, transmission, and any other loose parts that are being sold with the car after the initial purchase. My original intention was to restore this vehicle to at least local show level. Obviously, my plan has changed. I find myself heading into my middle 60's and have another car under restoration that I have all of the parts for and must be completed first. As a result, I am unsure when, or if, I would ever get to restoring this car. Given the scope of the restoration that would be required, I decided it's best to let it go.
The production date of this car was 10/22/55, making it a very early 56. It had a power top, power steering and brakes. The windows and seats were manual, not power, which I actually prefer on a 50's car. Simpler, less expensive, and more reliable. The Vin/Trim Tag on the driver's side door jamb translates as follows: It is a Los Angeles car, unit #15105 built in 1956, 76B is Montclair Convertible. #18 indicates the exterior color light Verona Green, # 668 is for light green and medium green vinyl interior. 22K means built on 10/22/55, the 162nd one built that day.
I have a clear GA "Conditional" title in my name with my current address. I also have registrations for the vehicle for every year that I owned it. It wasn't until 2019 that you could even get a Title in GA for a vehicle produced before 1962. In 2019, they made the "Conditional" Title available. There is no negative connotation associated with a Conditional Title (Google it for yourself). The only difference from a newer vehicle Title, to quote what is actually printed on my Title, is simply that the Title "may not reflect all liens or encumbrances". There are none.
MY ASKING PRICE:I am simply trying to recoup what I can on this sale, not fund my retirement. My starting bid of $6,900 is less than I paid for just the rolling shell almost 15 years ago. I have almost $5,000 into the chrome and paid $3,400 for the interior in 2012. That interior would certainly cost at least double that today to have it fabricated. On top of that, there is probably another $3,000 in parts that come with the car. So, while I realize the cost and effort required to restore the car is considerable, I think my asking price is as reasonable as it gets. One thing is certain- at this price, I am already selling at a considerable loss. I won't be interested in offers lower than my starting bid.
OVERALL CONDITION OF THE CAR:
THE BODY AND UNDERCARRIAGE
I provided the Maximum number of pictures allowed. A good look at them on Zoom will answer many condition questions that you may have. I will any questions I can and am happy to provide more pictures on request.
The body of this car, despite the initial impression it might make, is actually quite good. There is no evidence that it was ever involved in a collision of any kind. There are not any significant dents and no trace of filler/bondo anywhere on the car that I saw. It only has a skinny layer of paint on it, not multiple coats. If you look down the length of the body, there are no waves or ripples to be found. The panel gaps are all good. The doors do not sag on opening, and the rockers look good from what can be seen.
As far as rust, there is obviously surface throughout. However, as the pictures show, the Trunk floor looks great. The interior floor pans also look relatively good. The front floors look quite good. The rear seat floors have heavier surface rust but no through and through that I see. Obviously, the metal work that will ultimately be necessary can't be determined until the car is media blasted/stripped. The frame as seen from the empty engine compartment also looks good, as does what I can see of the frame laying on the ground from the rear. I have never seen the car on lift, so I am reporting on the undercarriage only from what I can see lying on the ground or in the empty engine compartment. Other than the rust at the bottom of the doors there are only 3 small areas where I can confirm actual thru rust holes:- A line of rust on the rear panel underneath the license plate/fuel door.- There is about a 3-inch square hole on the very bottom rear corner of the right rear quarter panel.- A small hole on the very bottom front corner of the front fender behind the bumper.
A previous owner had removed the hood ornaments and front fender spears and welded close the holes so they would have to be redrilled. At the back edge of the hood the paint had peeled, and it was beginning to get surface rust, so it was primed to prevent further rust from forming. NOS front fender spears are included. I actually just stuck them to the front fenders with Dum Dum for the pictures. Note, the NOS wrapping is still on them which is why they look like they do in the picture.
As far as the doors, the entire bottom of the doors on the car are badly rusted. However, I have a replacement pair of doors that go with the car. The passenger side replacement is very nice. The driver's side replacement has a rust line at the very top edge along where the window whiskers are. However, the door that is on the car is excellent at the top and can provide the necessary repair panel. There is also a fold in the front edge of that door that should not be a big deal to straighten.
THE CONVERTIBLE TOP
The top frame is complete and does not look like it is bent or distorted. The upper window edges meet and seal the top frame nicely. Some of the frame members will need to be rechromed. None of the frame members are badly rusted. The center bow is slightly bent where someone must have piled something on it, but I don't see it being difficult to straighten it. The top does not move or lower. I'm guessing the hydraulic cylinders must be frozen. I have a large lot of NOS and decent used top frame pins that go with the car, as well as a newer (bought in 2018 or 2019 I think) KEE convertible top kit. I have purchased many Kee convertible tops over the years and have found it to be a quality product.
THE GLASS
The driver's door glass is broken. Other than that, the remaining tinted glass including the Windshield is actually nice. There is little delamination around the edges. While maybe replacement for a show level restoration may be needed, I would certainly rate all of the glass as easily nice Driver (my opinion of course). From what I've seen, flat panel replacement glass is readily available and not terribly expensive.
THE EXTERIOR CHROME
Most of the exterior chrome has been very nicely rechromed and is bolt on ready and includes:- The entire rear bumper assembly including all 5 pieces is done- The entire front bumper assembly has been rechromed except: The hooded bumper guards, the "Mercury" letters (the "C" is broken), and the parking light bezels. The parking bezels are in nice above average Driver condition, and the other parts should should be good candidates to rechrome.- The large right side rear quarter Stone Guard has been rechromed.- The only other exterior parts requiring rechroming are the jet hood emblem, long trunk lid ornament, and front fender medallion Housings. Good cores for all are provided. The only part missing is the Big M hood ornament.-The taillight assemblies have been nicely rechromed and completely restored with new lenses and even nicely restored back sides
THE EXTERIOR STAINLESS TRIM
As a whole, with nothing more than just a routine cleaning and polishing, the stainless would probably be in above average/nice driver condition, and I would say could be restored to local show level without undo effort. The stainless around the windshield is quite nice. The spears have a minor ding here or there but are overall good. The color separators on the upper doors are quite nice, as is the piece around the top with the Boot snaps. The stainless around the quarter and door windows should clean up nicely. Some of those pieces around the windows are chromed and probably will need to be rechromed for show. As noted above, the front fender spears are NOS and still in the wrapper.
THE EXISTING INTERIOR
All gauges are present. It is unknown if any work. For simplicity's sake, I will rate all of the chrome knobs, bezels, etc. as at least Driver condition. Some will clean up to better than that, some will not without being rechromed, etc. The door and window cranks will need to be rechromed. The stainless door panel trim is all good and present and can be transferred to the new door panels. A new refurbished clock that should run was purchased from Main Street Classic Car clocks and is included. 2 sets of Vintage NOS old school Green seat belts are also included for front and back. The Drivers side A pillar trim cover has a rust hole that will require repair.
WITH RESPECT TO THE NEW INTERIOR:
As noted above, this was fabricated by one of the best when it came to 50's Fords and Mercury cars. I believe all necessary upholstery is included that is needed for the seats, carpet, convertible top well, Boot, front and rear door panels, sun visors, Kick panels, etc. The stainless trim needed on the door panels is on the car and in very good condition. There are so many interior pieces provided that I don't even recognize what they are all for. While everything has been fabricated, an installer will still be needed.
WHAT IS INCLUDED THAT IS NOT PICTURED. I MAXED OUT ON PICTURES FOR THE AD BUT CAN SEND MORE OF ANY ITEM LISTED ON REQUEST.- A front and rear pair of NOS vintage Green Seatbelts.- As above, a rebuilt dash clock purchased from Main Street Classic car clocks.- A rechromed right rear quarter stone guard.- Nice cores to rechrome that include the long trunk lock emblem, and the Jet Hood Ornament.- A correct 312 Y-block. I bought this on ebay advertised as a running engine when it was removed. I haven't tried to turn it and can't know if it is rebuildable or not.- The correct Mercomatic air cooled Transmission. As mentioned, the car is an early production 56 made in 10/55. Mercury did not go to a fluid cooled trans until 1/56. I bought this trans separate from the engine on Ebay. It is absolutely grimy with a heavy grease layer covering it. The fill tube was broken by the original shipper, but I have another one included. I don't know if the pan was damaged at the tube as well. I have no way to know if it is rebuildable. It is a "PAW" transmission as per the tag on the case.- A Driveshaft and aluminum torque converter from the same vehicle that the trans came from.- A correct used radiator from 55 w/o the cooling lines. This will need restoration/recoring.- The correct trunk jack- NOS- 2 front and a rear motor mount.- Engine accessory belts- Gas tank straps- Used Power Steering Pump, Starter, water pump, fan pulley. All will need rebuild.- A spare tire rim- Bell crank with accelerator and kick down linkages- Parts manuals and service manuals.
I think that about covers the general overview I am able to give about the car without trying to discuss every nut and bolt.
MY TERMS AND THE NOT-SO-FINE PRINT
- I strongly suggest inspecting any vehicle before purchase. I've been around auto restoration in some capacity most of my life. I've done my best to give an honest and thorough general review of this vehicle, but in the end, my description of the vehicle is my opinion. I haven't gotten a good look at the undercarriage on a lift. I can't possibly list everything that is wrong, what will be needed, or if any given part is restorable or not. I am retired and can make myself available during reasonable business hours for you or your agent to inspect the car. Be sure to check my Feedback as a Seller. It speaks for itself. This will be the 5th Classic Car I am selling on Ebay in the last 10 years.
- There is a $500 non-refundable deposit due within 24 hours of the auction close.
THERE ARE ONLY 2 PAYMENT OPTIONS ACCEPTABLE TO ME. NO CHECKS OF ANY KIND:
- I will accept a wire transfer to my bank. Instructions will be provided at the end of the auction. *****Unless you use the same bank as I do, a wire transfer from a different bank on the day of pickup doesn't work. The transfer won't be released same day under those circumstances. A previous buyer of a 57 T-bird that I was selling insisted he could do that. He was wrong. After he drove 10 hours to pick it up, it ended up being a challenge on pick up day, to say the least.
- I will accept cash. My bank is 10 minutes way, no appointment is needed, and there is always a Notary on duty. What I've always done in the past is to provide a copy of the Bill of Sale for both parties that we have Notarized at the Bank. The Buyer can hand the Cash directly to the Teller to count it and authenticate the Bills without me ever touching the cash. Then the Title is executed and exchanged, and we go back to my house and load the car and parts. I have found this as a great way for all parties to feel comfortable and safe with this aspect of the transaction. Obviously, the transaction must be arranged during normal, non-holiday business hours.
- The Title, Registrations, Vehicle, and parts will not be released until payment has been made in full and I am satisfied as per my Bank that the payment has cleared and is irrevocable.
- The Title must be fully executed by myself and the Buyer. It is illegal in GA to provide a blank title that has not been executed, and I do not want the liability of remaining the Owner in Title after I am no longer in possession of the vehicle. If the Buyer will not be present personally to pick up the Title and vehicle, I will neatly execute the Buyers section as requested, minus the signature of course. Further, if a third party or party other than the Buyer is picking up the vehicle, I must receive a message via Ebay messaging from the Buyer that authorizes and identifies the 3rd party that will be picking up the car, parts, and paperwork on your behalf. I will photocopy their I.D. at pick up. Once the Vehicle, title, and parts have been rendered to the Buyer or third party, I am absolved from any further responsibility for Same.
- The sale is final upon release of the Vehicle, Title, registration, and parts. The vehicle and all parts are being sold in "AS IS" condition with no guarantees or warranties expressed or implied.
- PICKUP/DELIVERY. BECAUSE OF THE NUMBER OF LARGE AND HEAVY LOOSE PARTS, THERE ARE MORE CONSIDERATIONS THAN WITH A TYPICAL PICKUP OF JUST A VEHICLE. PLEASE READ AND UNDERSTAND THE FOLLOWING RELATIVE TO PICKUP:
- The Buyer is solely responsible for arranging pickup or shipping of the vehicle and parts at the Buyer's sole expense.
- While this vehicle does not have a drivetrain, it is still heavy. It steers and rolls, but there are no brakes or shifting into park. A winch is a must.
- My property has some limitations as far as accessing it. The road to my house is a regular paved 2 lane country road, but there is no shoulder at all. A 55-foot-long big rig can't get into my (long) driveway or turn around on the road leading to it. An ideal vehicle would be either a flat bed or an F-150 with a 24 or so foot trailer. We will need to discuss the details of how you intend to pick up your purchase prior to that day.
- Extra consideration and time must be given to loading and securing the engine and trans if you want it, as well as 18 linear feet of rechromed bumper sections and other brightwork that must be protected and safely stowed. There is also a pair of doors, driveshaft, radiator, a Torque Converter, and a couple of boxes. I can wrap and package everything in advance of your arrival if you are not interested in inspecting it all. I would pack everything as if it is mine, but I don't take responsibility for damage to anything that I've packed. You are certainly encouraged to look at everything, but keep in mind it will require considerable time to get it all packed properly if you are going to be in a hurry. As far as a 3rd party picking up, I'm not sure where you would find a third party with that kind of patience.
- While I am willing to assist with packing, loading etc., I will not take responsibility for any complications/problems or damage that occurs during loading or transporting the vehicle and parts home. As per GA law, the owner of the trailer/transportation equipment is responsible for properly loading and securing cargo on their equipment.