1969 Ford Mustang Fastback/Sportsroof Diamond Blue, AT, PS/PDB, A/C,Tilt
| Make: | Ford |
| Model: | Mustang |
| Type: | Fastback |
| Year: | 1969 |
| Mileage: | 46000 |
| Color: | Blue |
| Engine: | 302 4V |
| Cylinders: | 8 |
| Fuel: | Gasoline |
| Transmission: | Automatic |
| Drive type: | RWD |
| Interior color: | Black |
| Drive side: | Left-hand drive |
| Vehicle Title: | Clean |
| Item location: | Corpus Christi, Texas, United States |
1969 Ford Mustang Additional Info:
1969 Ford Mustang Fastback/Sportsroof Driver, Diamond Blue, AT, PS/PDB, A/C, Tilt, Fold down.
This car is a driver grade vehicle. Older restoration by Chris Giles (Giles Garage – Reading, PA) using only Ford OEM parts and sheet metal, the car was intended to be his personal vehicle. Priorities changed and the finished project was sold to a local PA buyer in 1994. I bought the car in spring of 2001 and brought it to Texas.
The first several years I owned it, I drove the car to work 3-4 days a week. As more and more kids were added to the family circus, the car was driven less and less. Starting about 2009, it was only taken out special occasions, then...retired completely approximately 4 years ago.The vehicle starts easily and runs smoothly. I outfitted the car as a driver with reliability and comfort as my main concerns. Besides upgrading the A/C, I had a Gearvendors overdrive unit installed (www.Gearvendors.com). In this application, the primary function of the overdrive unit is to reduce engine RPM's, making cruising at highway speeds more comfortable for both me and the car. The electronic switch to engage/disengage the GearVendor unit is "hidden" in the ashtray. Have a recent Texas vehicle safety inspection, but not currently registered to drive. Despite the extended storage, all the seals and gaskets seem to be in good shape as there are no drips or leaks present below the vehicle. I replaced the tires (due to flat spots) and purchased a new battery prior to listing.
Some of the specifics:
A SOLID vehicle with only very minor surface rust (mostly in engine bay).
302 4V. The motor and transmission were rebuilt in 1994 and less than 10,000 miles have been put on the drive train since that work was completed. Additional information regarding the components used in the build are in a PDF titled "1969 Mustang Specs" in the link for the additional photos and information below. Engine starts easily and runs well, but if I were going to keep it I would have a mechanic run through it top to bottom before making a long (100mile+) road trip.
C4 automatic transmission with Gearvendors Overdrive (Driver's choice of 3 or 6 speed, electric switch installed/hidden in ashtray)
Mach 1 dual exhaust
Power disc brakes
Power steering
Tilt steering column
Black interior (high back bucket seats front, fold down rear seat,standard door panels). Rest of interior needs to be freshened up: headliner needs to be replaced (seam separating in one spot), interior rear 'sail' lights should be replaced, dash clock not working, seal at base of shift lever should be replaced, some plastic chrome pitted or starting to peel.
Center console
Classic Auto Air air conditioning (R134 conversion, needs servicing)
Custom Autosound Receiver and CD changer head unit - 6 Disk CD changer mounted in trunk
Chrome is all there and in good (but not perfect) condition -some minor flecks and pitting
Magnum 500 14x7 wheels with new tire. There is minor pitting of the wheel chrome.
Export Brace
Reinforced shock towers
Urethane sway bar bushings and end links
1976 (?) Mustang 8'' center section with 3.55:1 positraction
Front end modified with MOOG heavy duty strut rod bushings,replaced upper control arms, MOOG idler arm
Boss 302 sway bars front and rear
Re-built rear springs with 1 additional leaf (1.5'' lowering blocks to level car)
Brake system was re-built less than 10k miles (new rotors, pads, wheel cylinders, master cylinder, and brake hoses)
Shaker hood with non-functional '80 Mustang Turbo scoop installed over shaker opening
Grant leather-wrapped steering wheel
Ford OEM GT Gas Cap
Aftermarket aluminum louvers/slats
Additional photos and information are available at:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/dj6s17v43hdy5e5/AADI_NfT4Tvt6QO8nNISdGzUa?dl=0
Full disclosure: while the pictures don't make it clear, the paint has some issues. After a couple of years of exposure to the high humidity we experience on the Texas gulf coast,small imperfections started appearing in the paint. Initially, I thought it was rust coming through from beneath the paint. I had the blemishes- about a half dozen or so - repaired at a local body shop, the owner of which explained the following to me: the issue with the paint has to do with the fact that lead was used as the primary body filling medium during the 1994 restoration...a fact that I confirmed with Mr. Giles (he still has his garage in Reading,PA). The local body shop owner further explained that lead is a 'hydrophilic' (i.e. 'water loving') material and the car may experience further paint issues if stored in a high-humidity environment. This could all be a load of crap (I am NOT a body man), but after he told me about it I did witness as he exposed one blemished area for repair and I can confirm it is NOT rust. Anyway...I could not afford to strip the entire car, and the affected areas had all been repaired so there was no way of targeting the repair of any other areas that may have been filled with lead. Furthermore, neither can I afford to air condition my garage, so...fast forward 15years and several new areas have blemishes that should be repaired to make the paint look like new again. With the possible exception of the trunk li, from ten feet away even an observant person will likely never notice them, and even at 5 feet most of them remain invisible most of the time... but in the right light and at the right angle, at that distance a person might pick them out. In my mind, the aforementioned trunk lid is the worst area and I would tell you the top should be stripped and repainted...even if used as a driver. I will point out, however, that given the fact that these imperfections were last repaired about 15 years ago, I suspect it is likely that most - if not all - of the problem areas have been exposed (by now). Consequently, if the auction winner/buyer is moving the car out of the high humidity, spot repairs may be sufficient to return the paint to show-room condition and still have a reasonably high level of it will stay that way. On the other hand, if the vehicle once again ends up in a high humidity environment like ours, I would recommend the buyer strip the car and use something other than lead as the filler, just to be sure. Just my two cents, but I'm pretty picky.
Most of the documentation and installation instructions for work done since I purchased in 2001 have been retained and placed in a binder in protective sheets.
I readily admit I don't know a fraction of what most true Mustang aficionados know about these older cars, but I can assure you it's a solid car and I have done my best to describe the vehicle accurately.That said, I'm sure I've missed describing and/or highlighting something about which a potential buyer might have questions. If you'll please keep in mind that I don't know ANY of the vehicle's history prior to 1994, feel free to ask questions and I'll do my best to get them answered.One last note: Am going to try and get the car on a lift so I can take some pictures of the undercarriage, so please check back if that's your request.
Terms & Conditions:$500 (nonrefundable) down via PayPal within 24 hours of auction close.Balance due via cashier's check (has to clear before vehicle will be released), wire transfer, or cash within 7 days of auction close. Buyer is responsible for arranging and funding shipping, but I will make every effort to facilitate transport on my end.
. IMPORTANT . IMPORTANT . IMPORTANT ***
While collecting and assembling documents in preparation for this auction, I was (very!) surprised to learn that the title I have had in my possession the last 18 years is incorrect - there was a repeated digit present on the title I had that is NOT on the VIN or body tags. On Jan 7, 2020, I initiated the paperwork to correct the error and was told that I will have a new (and correct) title in my possession "withing the next two weeks" per the TxDoMV clerk at the county courthouse. Since this is a 10 day auction, In order to preserve my marriage I have decided to go forward with the auction without the corrected title in hand, and instead disclose the title "issue" to prospective buyers. I have prepared a PDF with scans of the paperwork and images I believe accurately and clearly document the mistake along with the application for an amended/corrected title. The PDF can be viewed using the link to the extra photos provided above. While I cannot guarantee the two week window for delivery, I doubt it will extend much beyond that time frame (several of my other vehicle title applications were filled much quicker)...I can however, guarantee the issue will be resolved ASAP!
