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RARE! K20 Conversion from 06 RSX Type S VTEC 239 WHP, N/A, Street Legal, FAST :)

Make: Fiat
Model: X-1/9
Type: Convertible
Doors: 2
Year: 1974
Mileage: 70000
VIN: 128AS0014709
Engine: 2 L
Cylinders: 4
Fuel: Gasoline
Transmission: Manual
Drive type: 2WD
Interior color: Red and Black
Drive side: Left-Hand Drive
Vehicle Title: Clean
Item location: Gladys, Virginia, United States

1974 Fiat X-1/9 Additional Info:

1974 Fiat X19 with a 2006 Acura RSX Type S K20 Engine Conversion, 2 litre VTEC, coupled with a 6 speed close ratio manual transmission.

Registered and street legal.

Churches Automotive in CA did the Dyno (Shawn Church) and Ryan did a complete wiring harness for the Hondata KPRO, and a Stage 2 clutch (Clutchmasters) with light flywheel and LSD.

Clutch pedal is pretty stiff, but very short throw (a bit of a light switch) just the way I like it. Adjust to your preference.

Bottom line: Clean reliable239 HP (Dyno sheet attached in pictures) with a 8,700 RPM red line (conservative) and a 5,200 RPM VTEC. Weighs 1,830 pounds with half tank. Easy to drive around the city, a monster on the track.

This is a race car that is street legal, not the other way around.

This Transplant was put together by Matt at Midwest Bayless in July of 2010. It is in excellent running condition with ALL documentation of maintenance, parts, and upgrades. The rest I did myself.

In a nutshell: Here is what I did to lighten, stiffen, and make it handle like it's on rails...

I gutted the interior:

Removed all carpeting, door panels, all inside door handles gone, no door glass, 3/16 inch plexi / lexan that is functional, slides up and down (Stratos style).

Installed a Corbeau driver's seat, and a cheap, lightweight passenger seat (custom upholstered), scraped off all sound deadening and painted. Replaced rear glass with 1/8 inch plexi / lexan, made the car as light as possible while still able to drive it in the rain.

Roll bar/cage with harness bar, 4 point harnesses both sides (driver's with Camlock latch, passenger's with Duckbill latch), quick release Grant GT steering wheel, shift light, battery kill switch, on-board fire extinguisher.

Total overkill on chassis bracing inside & out, front, rear, & underneath. Front "trunk" still usable, front air ducts functional for cooling and down-force, Koni G force complete struts (not inserts) with 450lb springs all around, steel braided brake lines, larger 38mm calipers in rear for better brake bias, carbon kevlar pads, front and rear sway bars, reinforced all 4 strut towers and used 5/16 nuts, and much more.

I take care of it and keep it in perfect running order with all maintenance records. (I am a retired mechanic). I use Valvoline Durablend 5W 30, oil and air filter changes on a regular basis, replace plugs once...Not much else needed. There are NO leaks.

I wrapped the hood, flares, deck lid, air dam, duckbill, and trunk lid in 6d Carbon Fiber. I wrapped the rest of the car with satin black and yellow. The paint under is Red "Rosso Vivo" in OK condition. No dents or scratches (exterior), no rips or tears (interior).

This is not a show car, it is a good 10 footer, far from perfect aesthetically. The wrap job is not so good, but the fiberglass flairs got abused when I took it regularly on the Track...this way I can re-wrap them every year or so.

I tracked it on average 4 times a year depending on finances, I don't race, just club events, mostly Friday "Test and Tune" sessions at WSIR and Streets. I have all dates, tracks, and lap times recorded. To give you some idea...1:34 at Big Willow (with more in it) and broke the 1:30s in both directions at Streets of Willow (with the bowl).

Here is a link for the 1:34 lap at Big Willow, as you can see, very planted and not nearly at its limits...FUN AS HELL!!! This car needs to be driven hard without abusing it!

https://youtu.be/dg9stxAUFjM?si=Nwge_aiKN2Vq0xje

With all due respect, I have surprised many Vettes, Lotuses, BMW's, Porches, and Miatas...All in good fun. Many of you that go to WSIR, Buttonwillow, and Fontana, may recognize the car. All my times are conservative, I never crashed, or spun off track...I love my car.

I've owned this car for 30 years, 13 years with the K20 swap. Before that, it had a 1600 stroked Fiat engine that I built with a PBS big valve head with a B3 cam, PBS headers, forged pistons, and dual DCOE 45 Weber sidedraft carbs.

It was a California car for most of its life. I was forced to shut my business down during "Lockdowns"...We moved to southern Virginia 2.5 years ago. Car is solid and straight, some minor surface rust.

I no longer have the finances to track it...It is time to sell.

It is set up perfect for Track, street fun, and canyons, 450 lb springs all around. Comfortable enough for bumps, but stiff enough for track. I also have 300lb springs and 550lb springs...Tried them all, these seem to be the best for all around.

I chose to keep the 13 inch wheels and tires (old school) that is why I had the wheels custom made by Keizer (3-piece lightweight aluminum wheels 8.5 lbs each). All four corners are the same, this way I can rotate and get the most out of these hard to find tire sizes.

FOUR 225/45/13 TOYO Proxes on the car, 2 rears are brand new.

TWO 225/45/13Hancook Ventus mounted on rims for track, super sticky! I have another set of these scuffed / used.

FOUR 205/60/13 Federals, mounted on rims for winter. Horrible tires, but a must for VA rain.

All wheels are 13 X 8, total of 10 wheels and 14 used tires included.

I do not want to let this car go!! But I am getting older (aren't we all!) I can't track it anymore out here. This K swap needs a car lover who is physically fit, (and with at least a partially sound mind!) who will DRIVE this car!! Driving skills are essential, otherwise this thing will bite you! (This should NOT be anyone's first car!)

I am 6'1" 170lbs...The seat is bolted to the floor, you can reinstall as needed. The driver's side floor was lowered 2 inches in the rear, and one inch in the front for helmet clearance. All Tig welded professionally.

Way too many things to list, here is what I have documented and remembered.

Labor is NOT included.


ENGINE and Trans.

2006 K20 type S, 6 speed, Complete Transplant $30,000

Hondata Kpro upgrade and tune $4,000

Custom Cold air intake $250

K series fuel rail $130

Stage 2 clutch and light flywheel $850

Custom Poly engine and Trans. mounts $350

Oil pan baffle$425

Limited Slip Diff. $2500

Custom fabricated shifter $500

Custom shift Cables and helm joint ends $300

SUSPENSION / BRAKES

4 Keizer wheels(magnesium centers) (8.5lbs) $2000

6 Keizer wheels(Aluminum centers) (8.5lbs) $1800

G Force Koni, dual adjustable Coilovers $3,500

450lb Eibach springs $200

Front and Rear Sway bars $400

Drilled and slotted rotors 4 $350

New front and rear calipers $300

Porterfield carbon kevlar pads $170

Steel braided brake lines $360

4 wheel Alignment, corner weigh $250

Performance rear calipers (38mm) $329

CAGE AND BODY BRACING

Front triangulated reinforcement (cross brace) $500

Roll cage $1500

Rear engine bay reinforcement $1000

All 4 shock towers welded / reinforced $450

Rear suspension reinforcement $300

Cage to rear tower braces $300

BODY

Pop up LED headlights

Custom LED driving lights

Custom front air outlets on hood $450

Fiberglass rear engine cover $260

Fiberglass rear deck lid with Plexi $300

Fiberglass Rear duckbill spoiler $250

Carbon Fiber wrap on deck lid $175

Fiberglass flares $240

FAZA Fiberglass air dam $325

Soft top custom made $300

Rear window Plexi $150

INTERIOR

No carpet or door panels

Corbeau Driver's Seat $500

4 point racing harness$375

Upholtered cheap pass. seat with harness $400

Custom gages and dash

Llightened, gutted doors with Plexi $400

Carbon Fiber wrap on dash $200

Battery kill switch$75

MSD Shift light $195

The paint under the wrap is fair. No structural rust, some rust on running boards, nothing to worry about.

I am in no rush to sell my baby, serious inquiries only please.

Asking $39,500 (over $55,000 invested)