1990 BMW 3 series E30 316i 3.5 m30 swapped Manual touring

1990 BMW 316 E30 Touring 3 Series 316i Additional Info:

About this vehicleThis 1980 BMW 316 is a modified vehicle with updates to the exterior and drivetrain. The owner has had it for 3 years. The vehicle runs great and is mainly used for weekend drives.Seller's NotesACTUAL VIN: WBAAG82010EA75384ACTUAL MAKE/MODEL: 1990 bmw 316i touring.m30 3.5 swap.car is sold as is. i recommend potietial buyers checkout all pictures closely and ask any questions before biding. it is buyers responsiblitly to arrange shipping but I may be able to help for neighboring states of Utah. Car Holds a clean utah title in my name.Exteriorthe exterior is overall very straight and still has mostly original paint. the paint still shines very well but it looks to me like the last few years before I purchased it it was ran through automatic car washes and scrubbed with the deadly bristle brush as there are a ton of small scratches and swirls In the top panels, especially the roof.the front end looks like it had a respray before I got it and doesn’t have the swirls like the roof and tops of the doors do.Being a euro car the car came equipped with the euro smiley headlights, the euro bumper trim without reflectors, and the euro side markers on the fenders. the car also has 20% tinted windows all around, black kidney grills, red out tail lights, “I” front lip spoiler and smoked front marker lights. The wheels are 17x8.5 axis reps of bbs lm and are wrapped in 225/45/17 tires.The license plates on the car are what came on it from the Uk.As far as rust and body damage goes the only areas that will eventually need attention is the back boxes/ pockets. when I got the car the further most bottom corner of left side back quarter panel pocket was already a little bit rusted away. I broke off all the soft spots and coated the inside and outside with por 15. that area hasn’t gotten any worse in the last 3 years I’ve had the car and isn’t soft or weak in any spots. on the right side it was starting to do the same thing in the same area but I cleaned up and area and did por15 and it hasn’t gotten any worse and the right side isn’t missing any chunks or had any pieces break away. it looks like there is also some rust developing behind the rear filler panel where the license plate goes but I haven’t dared try to take it apart and risk breaking that panel. it also looks like the previous owner had some patch panels done on the right rocker panel. they look decently done and aren’t bubbling or rusting.InteriorFactory right hand drive car with black leather interior and mtech 2 steering wheel.gauge cluster is in miles and odometer still works. the seats are in good shape with no rips and all adjustments work in the front seats. There is a little bit of wrinkling in the driver seat bolster.The mtech2 wheel was added by me in the last year and just needs to be recovered in Leather, I also have the stock 3 spoke sport steering wheel I will include. The factory grey carpet has no holes or excessive wear and the back hatch area is also in good shape with a little bit of wear on the sides. both side storage compartments in the back open and close like they should and stay latched close.Battery is relocated to the back right pocket like the coupe and sedan e30’s. the left storage compartment also has the factory bmw first aid kit and tools. the headliner is sagging like pretty much all e30 tourings and is held up with thumbtacks in the back to keep it from hanging too much. This car being from the UK never had factory AC. the climate control can be brought to cold but that just lets in the outside air.EngineThe car started life as a 316i which came with a 1.6 liter 4 cylinder engine. when I got the car it came with a big folder with a ton of invoices of maintenance work and things that were fixed. Looking at the invoices I have it looks like it was serviced at the same bmw dealership In England until 2008. The car ran well with the original engine and made the 10 hour drive home from Southern California to utah without any issues.I drove the car for for 6 months with the 4 cylinder engine until deciding to swap in the 3.5 m30 from a 1991 bmw 535i. Both engine and 5 speed transmission were used from the e34. parts changed and maintence items done when the swap was done Include:3.5 m30b35 and Getrag 260 from 1991 bmw 535i with 165k miles3.73 limited slip differentialgood n tight m30 swap engine mount arms (2 positions, at furthest back right now.)eBay chip for 91 octane, also raises rev limit to 7000wiring harness from m20 325ibattery relocation cable from m20 325ivalve check and adjustmentnew oe head gasket kit with head boltsnew Intake and exhaust gasketnew intake boot (after AFM)new timing chain guides and tensioner springnew timing chain cover gasketnew water pump and thermostatnew coolant temp sensors (blue and brown)new valve cover and oil pan gasketnew front and rear main sealsnew spark plugsnew oil and filternew rubber fuel linesnew fuel filter new750i brake master cylinde,rfull brake bleed and new brake fluide28 535i radiator (skinny and wide to provide clearance at front of engine)blue bmw coolantnew coolant expansion tank and capnew oe engine and transmission mountsnew rear shifter joint and transmission input and output sealsnew redline fluid in transsmissonpower flex front control arm bushings coilovers of unknown brand (came on car)functioning power steering(looks like high pressure line has small leak )heater works but NO AC( never came with it, uk Market)
The only thing the car needs mechanically is for the back half of the exhaust to be made. The exhaust currently Exits halfway and is pretty loud but I never bothered finishing it because I liked the sound and had plans to eventually boost the car so would have needed to be changed anyway.Besides the exhaust the car needs nothing mechanically. will run and drive anywhere and doesn’t overheat, fully warmed up the temp gauge sits between 1/4 and 1/2.When the swap was done I also had the engine bay partially shaved and repainted in porsche ultraviolet. the battery Tray on the right corner against the firewall was cut out and smoothed, and the front of the wheel wells were cut out and smoothed. the plan on cutting out the front of the wheel wells was to make the access for intercooler piping on the future turbo setup easier. the sheet metal that was cut out isn’t structural and doesn’t effect the chassis integrity.At the same time the engine bay was sprayed I also made the front radiator support removable by 6 bolts vs being weld in like it is from the factory. The removable radiator support makes any future motor swaps and removal a lot quicker than the factory setup.Deposits are nonrefundable.Created on the eBay Motors app