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Rebuilt 2f engine fuel injection w/ 5pseed manual new uphostery new paint

Make: Toyota
Model: Land Cruiser
Year: 1984
Mileage: 367000
VIN: JT3FJ60G7E0084661
Fuel: Gasoline
Transmission: Manual
Vehicle Title: Clean

1984 Toyota Land Cruiser Additional Info:

Year: 1984Vehicle Model: 60 SeriesLocation: Colorado, United StatesMileage: 367000+/-Color: Freeborn RedREDUCED FROM $27,700 TO $26,900 OBO!I am selling my 1984 FJ60 Land Cruiser as I am not driving it much and I'd like for it to be put to better use. I purchased the vehicle in May 2014, when it had approximately 350,000 miles. It was rough all around, but I was looking for a nostalgia project. (I learned how to drive at 14 on this model truck in La Paz, Bolivia, when my father was assigned to the U.S. Embassy in La Paz.) I'm attaching the car history report at this link: https://autotrusthistory.com/report/a1af4e14-eb77-4ff5-90b9-488bb0f54885. The truck presently has about 365,000 miles on it.Here is a video of Big Red starting after not been run for about 3 weeks -- quick start and strong. https://youtu.be/M9gWyS6hMCsI started making significant improvements to the vehicle in 2018, after returning from 3-years outside the USA. So, almost all the "improvements" (aka POFU for you) I am going to list completed during 2019-2020, with the exception of the paint job in 2023. I did most of the work myself. That's what I love about this model -- it is analog. So, I read tons of posts on forum, studied manuals, hunted parts, and just took my time. It has been a fabulous experience and I am grateful to have been a part of this community. Ask questions.I am asking $27,700 OBO for the truck “as is”. All records and receipts are available, and I have kept all of the original parts for someone who wants to restore to its original state. The vehicle is available for local pickup in Colorado Springs or I would be willing to drive it up to 250 miles to the new owner. Alternatively, I can assist you with shipment if you prefer that approach.Here are the details:MECHANICAL AND ELECTRICALInstalled rebuilt 2F engine (purchased from Voodoo Cruisers)Installed new H55F 5 speed transmission (purchased from Valley Hybrids (Georg))Installed rebuilt transfer case (purchased from Valley Hybrids (Georg))Installed Holley Sniper EFI (purchased from Mosley Motors) with electric fuel pump; I have the original carburetor if you want it.Professionally modified drive shafts to accommodate new H55F transmission and installed speedometer gear adjustor for accurate speedConverted to GM Saginaw power steering pump (I have the original power steering pump if you want it)Installed aluminum radiator with a sacrificial anode and electric dual fansDesmogged engine and vacuum tubing with pulley; I have all the original vacuum and smog equipment minus the rubber tubingInstalled new headers (I have the original header) and connected to existing exhaust. Repaired exhaust and installed new muffler. Just installed new catalytic converter.Installed high power alternator to accommodate new electronics (Quality Power).Installed Old Man Emu medium stiffness leaf springs with 2 in lift kit with new shocks and steering damper (2015)Rebuilt front knuckles with Toyota partsProfessionally rebuilt power steering box (Redneck Ram) with option to install ram to accommodate larger tires.Installed new AC compressor, condenser, evaporator, and hoses. Presently, the AC is not working as I need to take it to an AC specialists to properly charge it.Installed new rear brake shoes, new front disc calipers and pads, and stainless-steel brake lines.Installed halogen light conversion kit for FJ60Installed all-terrain BF Goodrich 33x10.50R15 Tires on new aluminum rims; I do not have the original chrome rims. I also installed spacers on all four wheels to eliminate rubbing with new front tied rods. Gorilla wheel locks installed.Installed speedometer adapter so that the speedometer reads the correct speed even though there are larger 33 tires (attaches to speedometer cable at transfer case).EXTERIOR BODYThe single most important item I've done is cutting minor rust and welding in new panels (driver's side wheel wheels, panels below doors and rear quarter panel; rear tail gate; passenger rear quarter panel). The passenger side panel below the doors is good on the exterior, but the inside under carriage needs minor rust repair. In this way, the truck is fully stabilized and virtually rust free. I completed wire brushed the underside and frame and coated with POR15. One small patch of the frame needs a little help.All exterior rubber replaced (door jams, glass gaskets, window felts are new, front wheel well rubber protectors; most are Toyota OEM)Installed new windshield with new Toyota chrome; all other glass is in very good condition.All original chrome installed, except for some lock chrome for rear windows; replaced with chrome-colored plastic lock.Summer 2024 I sanded the truck down to bare metal to eliminate all remaining rust. I did an "ok" backyard repaint by using light body filler, heavy build primer, and single stage paint from PPG to match the original Freeborn Red. My primary goal here was to protect the truck. It was not to create a cream puff and I didn't want to drop $12,000 for a paint job. I spent about $2,500 in supplies so that the truck would be "stable" and ready for a future professional paint job.Installed retro style vinyl stripping from Siege OverlandInstalled attractive mud flapsInstalled desirable European Toyota mirrorsReplaced all plastic light lenses and markers and rubber seals; replaced most lights with LEDs with proper voltage adjustmentInstalled Toyota 4Runner replacement front wipers (the old ones were very floppy)Installed new Toyota chrome bumpers on front and back of vehicle.Replaced all Toyota badging (OEM) and installed aftermarket front grille.INTERIORProfessionally re-upholstered front and back seats and door cards and rear panels using reproduction fabric from SMS Fabric and new auto vinyl. Driver seat fabric shows some wear. I have extra fabric available to repair.Replaced all rubber door molding that covers pinch weldsInstalled Tuffy security console and arm restInstalled new headliner with heat resistant roof liner.Installed new replacement carpet and paddingInstalled all new seat beltsInstalled custom aluminum glovebox sold by a MudderInstalled custom aluminum-milled center control panel sold by a MudderReplaced all interior incandescent bulbs (dash, speedometer, headliner) with LEDsInstalled Blaupunkt Bremen SQR 46 DAB Bluetooth USB MP3 AUX Stereo with amplifier and new speakers; AM/FM is not presently working but Bluetooth and ESB connections to a mobile phone are perfect.Installed Toyota OEM Australian inclinometerOTHERI've kept every part possible so that truck can be re-smogged and restored to its original condition.I primarily rebuilt the truck for drivability -- the fuel injection works great even in 10 degree weather in Colorado. The 5-speed is a dream on the highway. Even with the larger tires and the 2F engine, using the climbing 3rd gear, I drive this truck from 6,000 feet in Colorado Springs up to 10,000 feet in the area of Pikes Peak for flying fishing with no problem. It is a little slow when climbing more than a 5-degree grade, about 45 miles an hour, but does it like a champ. Once the road flattens out, its back up to 65 miles per hour.There are a ton of other little picky things I've done -- replacing bolts, rubber grommets, etc. -- that are too numerous to mention. I love this truck and perhaps it is time to let it go.KNOWN ISSUES:I must have a small exhaust leak because sometimes in the cabin there is the odor of exhaust. It isn't bad, but it must be entering through the firewall or the rear tail gate area. The previous owner turned the vehicle over to me with a partially crushed rear tail gate, which created a gap between the body and the tailgate. I replaced the rubber seals here, but there is some exhaust still entering there. I also just installed a new catalytic converter to see if this would improve the issue. So, that needs to be investigated.The engine runs wonderfully, but the rebuilt 2F engine is from a FJ40, not a FJ60. Voodoo Cruisers re-built this engine like a champ. It is so, so strong and I probably haven't put more than 10,000 miles on the engine. I've done my best to tune and train the Holley Sniper EFI and it never stumbles, idles evenly, and has the power you'd expect from a forklift engine (ha ha). The gas mileage is a dog -- about 10 miles to the gallon in the city. I don't think I've optimized the tuning, but I don't mind the bad mileage especially as it runs smoothly. I'll take dependability and running a bit rich any day over better mileage. I know this engine is from an FJ40 because there isn't a place to mount the original power-steering pump to the engine. So, that's one of the reasons I converted to a GM Saginaw pump (super reliable compared to the three rebuilt Toyota power steering pumps I ate through). The Saginaw is bolted to the top of the engine block where the rocker cover is located. I purchased a special mounting for the pump, and my machinist-neighbor also beefed it up.This drives me crazy: I've replaced the door jam switches that control the dome light. They are actually from a newer model Toyota and are brand new. After repainting and putting everything back together, I forgot to re-connect the door switch wires to the wiring harness. The dome light does properly turn on when the driver's door is a ajar. So, the interior trim needs to be removed to reconnect the wiring for the other doors.A couple years ago, before I took on the major restoration, I definitely had a short in the main wiring harness. It melted and caught a bit of a spark right where it entered in the firewall on the driver’s side. So, I knew it had to be replaced. So, I purchased a replacement pulled from another vehicle. I got that entire harness reinstalled, which was a huge project. It works great and all plugs and everything are working fine. But, I've never got the rear defroster to work for the hatch. I can't identify the problem and the harness and switch seem to be good. So, that needs to be investigated.The replacement pulley for the de-smogged engine. Okay, this is just poorly done. I purchased a replacement pulley from Man-a-fre and that went in fine. But, when I replaced the 2F engine with the rebuilt one from the FJ40, that caused a cascading problem. Specifically, now the Saginaw power steering pump doesn't tie in well to the de-smogging pulley. Yes, it all bolts together stiff and with good tension. I've never had any problem. But, it just isn't properly put together. I need to have a new de-smog pulley built that will bolt with a tensioner to the Saginaw power steering pump.Rust. I've already mentioned the small rust issue with the driver's side rear frame; it needs to be cut out and replaced. Otherwise, the frame is solid. Also, I mentioned, there is a bit of body rust on the underside -- the passenger door section. It is really a cosmetic problem and can be quickly cut out and patched. It is an afternoon job. Nothing serious.AC: I have got the AC to work well, but I over did it and over pressurized the system after converting to R134. So, the whole new system I installed has to be reinspected and charged. One of the new hoses I installed has a bad fitting and I know this is the origin of the leak. I don't think that I ruined the new compressor, but you need a proper AC specialist to run a vacuum test and then recharge.The dash. The dash was in horrible, horrible shape. I tried to redo it with filler and paint. It is passable, but I hate that it doesn't look like the original. That's why there is a new dash mat from SOR. I like it! But, I really wanted a restored dash, but that costs like $1,200 to have done. You could install a new plastic dash cover over my poor re-do. That would be the best thing to do.