1975 Plymouth Fury Sport - 440 Big Block, 4-speed, 8 3/4 rear end

1975 Plymouth Fury Sport Additional Info:

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For sale is a 1975 Plymouth Fury Sport with a 440, A-833 4-speed, and an 8 ¾ rear end. I have owned this vehicle for a little over 10 years and I’ve made the difficult decision to sell it because I have too many projects and I no longer have room for it. This car was originally a 318 automatic and at some point prior to when I bought it the 440 and a 4-speed were installed. The 440 block has a casting number of 3698830-440-5 with a date code of 6-15-73. The casting number of the heads is 2843906. The engine was rebuilt prior to when I bought the car. It has an OEM forged crank. I don’t know the cam specs, but it’s a fairly mild engine. It idles smoothly, runs well, and has lots of torque. I’ve included a picture of the inside of the crankcase from when the oil pan was removed several years ago. The engine will drip a little oil when parked, but it’s not enough that I ever have to add oil between oil changes. I was told the A-833 is from a 1973 E-body. It’s not an overdrive. It has a McLeod flywheel and clutch and a Lakewood safety bellhousing. The transmission shifts well and the clutch works fine. The 8 ¾ has a 489 case with 3.55 gears and a Powr-Lok suregrip. I don’t know what the mileage is on the car or on the engine. It has factory high performance exhaust manifolds, TTI 2.5" X-Pipe Exhaust System with 2.5” Stainless Works S-tube mufflers. It has a MSD distributor, coil, and plug wires. It’s a Fury, but it has a grill from a 1975 Road Runner. The rear leaf springs are super heavy duty and it has traction bars. I would guess the leaf springs are from a truck. I would say it drives and handles more like a truck than a car. It really isn’t a fast car, but I think it is fun to drive. The steering is a little bit loose. All of the bushings have been replaced, but I think the steering box is probably a bit worn out. It will wander a little when driving it at highway speed so it might need a front end alignment. The brakes are 11.75” disc brakes in front and 11”x 2.5” drum brakes in the rear. Both the front and rear brakes have been rebuilt and work fine. I have an air conditioning system from Classic Auto Air that is ready to install that I will include. It currently has an idler pulley where the AC compressor would go. The body and paint were done prior to when I bought the car, but it still looks decent. There are some chips, scratches, dings, etc. There are also a few spots of rust. The right rear quarter panel shows some bubbling in the paint from rust and I have included a picture of this. Also, I found some rust under the carpeting of the driver’s side floor pan when I lifted the carpeting several years ago and I have included a picture of that. Water will drip in from the driver’s side window if it’s uncovered in the rain and that’s likely why it’s rusted. I will be including a California Car Cover with the car. The driver’s side and passenger side windows have some scratches on them. I tried to take a picture that shows the scratches, but they don’t really show up on the picture. They are scratched because the window felts were missing, but I have installed new window felts. The windows are electric which work fine, but are a little slow going up and down sometimes. The handle for the parking brake release is missing, but pulling on the rod releases the parking brake fine. The wiring isn’t pretty, but the lights, turn signals, windshield wipers, blower motor, and radio all work. I will include an extra wiring harness I have for it. The interior still needs to be redone. The driver side seat has some tears in it and I currently have some cheap seat covers on the front seats. Also, there is no headliner. The dash pad doesn’t have any cracks in it, but it’s a different shade of green from the rest of the interior. The trunk lock and the passenger side door lock can be a little hard to unlock sometimes. The driver side door lock always works fine. It has a custom instrument panel with Autometer gauges that all work as they should. I drove it about forty miles recently without any problems, but I’ve never taken it on a long road trip so I would recommend you trailer it home or arrange for shipping if you live outside the St. Louis area. I have a factory service manual and a 1975 Mopar Parts Catalog that I will be including. It’s definitely still rough around the edges and needs work to finish it, but I think it’s a lot of fun and something really unique. I get compliments on this car almost every time I drive it. I have tried to disclose everything I know that is wrong with it, but of course there may be other issues that I am not aware of. It has a clear Missouri title.
Below is a list of parts that are on this car:Optima batteryHigh-performance factory exhaust manifoldsTTI 2.5" X-Pipe Exhaust System with 2.5” Stainless works S-tube mufflersRoad Runner grillGrant classic wood steering wheelCustom instrument panel with Autometer gaugesFront wheels and tires: BF Goodrich Radial TA P225/70R15 on Crager 15x7 Black D Window WheelsRear wheels and tires: BF Goodrich Radial TA P275/60R15 on Crager 15x8 Black D Window WheelsLakewood safety bellhousingMcLeod Flywheel and clutchHurst Pistol Grip shifter from Brewer’s PerformanceEdelbrock 1411 750 cfm carb with electric choke (On a hot day if the engine has been running and then is shut off the gas will start to boil in the carb and the pedal will need to be held to the floor when doing a hot restart)489 case third member with 3.55 gears and a Powr-Lok sure-grip11.75” disc brakes in front and 11”x2.5” drum brakes in the rearPowermaster 75 amp alternatorKYB shocks in the front and QA1 shocks in the rearMSD Distributer, coil, and plug wiresMilodon Aluminum high-volume water pumpMilodon Road Race oil pan with external pickup (the front sub-frame has a notch in it to allow the oil pan to fit and the oil pan was knocked in at one spot to allow full movement of the steering linkage)Milodon high-volume Aluminum oil pumpMocal remote oil filter mount with -12 AN plumbing