1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TD Wagon Turbo Diesel

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300-Series Additional Info:

I'm in a hurry to list this but I need to add more photos and details a little later this evening. I'm starting off with this much info to get it on the block right away.
I've owned this car for about 4 1/2 years and driven it daily. I did a great deal of mechanical work when I first bought it and I've tried to keep up with the minor issues as they come up / as things break but some things I just live-with. In that time I've driven the car about 21000 miles and I have records of all of the work I performed in a spreadsheet and a folder of receipts. I also have some documents of work done by previous owners and I included that in the spreadsheet as well.
When I bought the car the odometer was intermittent and so there is no way to know precise miles. It usually worked. I fixed it shortly after I bought the car.
I put a lot of effort into getting the engine running well. I removed all injectors and the pre-chambers in order to re-seal the (using Mercedes Source tools and procedures). I replaced the injectors with rebuild-ones using the preferred Monark nozzles and I also replaced the glow plugs.Then after adjusting the valves I tested compression and it was very good in all 5 cylinders: about 425PSI +/- 10. I think that's about as good as new. I had a local Mercedes specialist set the injection timing, check valve timing and condition of the timing chain. He said that the chain and guides are in excellent shape and that the valve timing is in-spec. I'll have to check my notes for exact timing but it's too early to starting using offset woodruff keys correct valve timing that is too late due to worn chain. It's apparent that oil changes have been performed very regularly.
I'll revise this description to list all of the other repairs that I've done a little later.
AC does not function. Also the ventilation fan is intermittent and rarely comes on anymore. I think that the control module needs to have its solder joints re-flowed.
I often drive it to Denver and back (100 miles round trip) but I won't suggest whether it would be advisable to drive cross-country. I just bought a modern car so I'm ready to pass this on. It would probably be best if this goes to an aficionado but if you're handy then you can learn to keep it going or if you have a local old-time MB mechanic then they should be able to keep this car on the road for a long time.
You can message me if you want my phone number.
You're welcome to come and drive this car, send your friend or a professional to inspect it. Please don't bid if you are not going to buy.
I think that I've represented the condition of this car to the best of my ability. I offer no warranty of guarantee of the future condition or performance of this car. Sold as-is.thanks
Some more info:

• Set of Michelin tires installed 4 years ago ~20k miles on them.
• PO had wheels stripped and powdercoated grey.
• I replaced the broken plastic fuel vapor canister with the more desirable metal version that was found on early TDs. The plastic canister lets diesel vapors into the car and is a common problem.
• I had the car painted about 4 years ago (original "Metalic Petrol" color). It was just OK paint job.. There was a bad hail storm shortly after that.
• Rear axles were replaced with ones from "Reinvent The Wheel"/ dieselmercedes dotcom. They take good original axles, replace lube and boots. They say that this is superior to any aftermarket axles.
• This car has the 2.88 differential (only found on 1985 W123s).
• Self Leveling (rear) suspension works fine. I think it was fully rebuilt about 40k miles back.

In addition to repairs I already mentioned,about 20k miles ago I did all this too:

• Brake pads
• Wheel alignment (with tire purchase)
• Replaced tie rod, idler arm and steering damper
• Replaced drive shaft flex joints, center support and bearing
• Replaced engine and transmission mounts
• Replaced engine oil pan
• Replaced transmission oil & filter
• Replaced differential oil
• Replaced rear door check straps
• Replaced door window switches (good used)
• Upgraded fuel priming hand pump
• Oil changes annually / 5k miles (synthetic) and air. fuel filters changed as needed

If interested, I have what I think is a complete kit of parts to change this car to 4 speed manual: transmission, proper flywheel for the 5 cylinder (not just the little 240 flywheel), shifter, linkage, pedals, hydraulics, correct-length drive shaft,transmission mount cross-member. Many of these parts came from a grey-market W123 250 (6 cylinder gas) sedan. There is a used clutch and some hardware. It would be a project and maybe some parts I haven't thought-of would need to be found. WWW shows a number of successful conversions. If you buy the car then you have the option to take the manual trans parts for $1200. Otherwise I'll auction them separately.

On Oct-31-18 at 18:05:34 PDT, seller added the following information:

Strange thing - Sorry, I did not intend to permit "cashier's check" as a payment option and now that there is a bidder I cannot change this option. It does indicate that the "cashier's check" must be certified from US or Canadian bank or money order. I don't have a full understanding of what that means. Car dealer just told me that cashier's checks are the most common financial fraud in America. So if you can prove to me that the cashier's check is not fraudulent (very high bar) then I'll take it. That means that I would go with you to your bank (must be in Boulder County) and watch you make the withdrawal. Otherwise bring cash or you can pay via Paypal. When I read the listing it indicates that credit cards are also accepted. That is not indicated in the listing form so I don't know how eBay makes it possible for credit cards to work - unless it's paypal. I also have a Zelle account and I think my CC company has a funds transfer service as well. Or you can wire funds...