Make: | Mazda |
Model: | RX-7 |
SubModel: | 412ci SBC 10.14@136MPH |
Year: | 1983 |
Mileage: | 34,750 |
VIN: | JM1FB3310D0724321 |
Engine: | 412ci sbc |
Interior color: | Dark Shadow Gray |
Vehicle Title: | Clear |
Item location: | Urbana, Illinois, United States |
For sale is a 1983 Mazda Rx-7. This car has a 412ci small block chevy engine and transmission swapped in with a Ford 8.8 rear end. This is really a fun little car to drive. It was built with the purpose of being a daily driver that'll pin your eyelids back when you give it some gas. This car had 34K original miles on it before doing the engine swap.
MOTOR:
The motor is a 400 small block chevy. The block was fully machined before putting in new rotating assembly. I has aftermarket 4bolt splayed caps with APR studs. Clevite 77 'H' series bearing. 4340 forged SCAT rods and SCAT crankshaft. Je custom forged pistons = 10.8-1 compression with moly rings that have been gapped for nitrous. TrickFlow 215cc R-series heads that were later ported out by 'Total Airflow.' They are clamped down using APR bolts and have MLS head gaskets. The valvetrain has a hydraulic roller cam from 'Crane Cams' (grind# HR-296-25-12 IG) which is 234/242 @.050 with .539/.558 lift w/1.5 rockers. The rest of the valvetrain has Crane roller lifters with 1.6 roller rockers. TorkerII intake manifold with a 950CFM Holley double pumper. The top of the intake was milled down 1/4 inch so that the carb would sit at stock height with the nitrous plate (just fits under the hood w/o a hood scoop/cowl. The carb is an E-85 carb; however, if the winning bidder would prefer a regular gas carb, I have one that i will put back on it and reset the timing. I used to run it on 92 octane but liked the low cost of E-85, but runs great either way. The headers are 'Hooker Supercomp' headers which empty down to 3" electric dumps directly behind the front tires. When the dumps are closed, the exhaust pipes 'Y' into one pipe and go though a muffler and pipe out the rear passengers side. The idea was to be able to drive around somewhat quietly unless racing, then I could take full advantage of no restrictions in the exhaust flow. I regularly drive this car to work half the time and do not need the any extra attention from loud exhaust. 100% streetcar!! The QTP electric dumps are controlled on the console between the front seats along with the line lock, and nitrous arming switches. All of the accessories the front of the motor are fairly new (water pump, alternator, starter, battery) within the last year. The ignition system consists of an MSD 6AL with MSD, ACCEL distributor, and spiral core wires. The cooling system consists of an aftermarket aluminum radiator, cutom fan shroud, and awesome electric fan. This car does NOT get hot in the middle of summer. I keep the fan on 'low setting' most of the time. In 90+ degree weather, if it looks like the temp is starting to creep, I just switch the fan to 'high' mode (switch on dash) and you can watch the temp gauge drop right down (160degree thermostat). This car has absolutely NO over heating issues whatsoever.
Nitrous System:
The Nitrous system is a plate system by 'NOS.' The system has a separate "Holley" electric fuel pump and separate fuel line solely dedicated for the nitrous stem. All controls for the system are built into the stock switches located between the front seats. It is currently set up for a 200 shot, but has only been used once (at the track) since the system was tuned.
TRANSMISSION:
The transmission is a built TH-400 that was specifically built to the specs for this motor. It has a B&M3400 stall converter with antiballooning plate. The transmission is set to shift by itself (no mvb). The tranny is cooled by going through the oil cooler built into the side of the radiator, then goes into a second external cooler mounted in from of the radiator. The shifter is a B&M MegaShifter.
DIFFERENTIAL:
This is actually a really nice piece. It is a built Ford 8.8 differential that has been narrowed; however, it has the original 'WATTS LINK' setup that came on Rx7s. It has 'Strange' axles and 'Strange' C-Clip eliminators with a 3.08 posi internals. I wanted a 3.08 gear because, like I stated earlier, this is really truly a street car made to be driven everyday, even on the highway. You might think the 3.08 would make it a slouch off the starting line; but, because of the 'very' low car weight and torq of the motor size, it pulls a 1.53 60ft while only staling the car to 3000rpm. The original intention of the build was to spray it coming out of the hole, thus the gear would help with the traction too.
BODY:
The body of the car is actually in pretty decent condition as you can see in the pictures. I'd give the body an 8.5 our of 10. It has a couple little dinges that came just from driving the car over the last year or so, but nothing major. The car was painted a two summers ago. It is a Ford color "Dark Shadow Grey Metallic" always loved that color. The interior of the car is pretty much stock. The seats and carpet are in great shape, no rips or tares; however, the plastic trim/mouldings inside the car has been sun faded and just doesn't look as sharp anymore. The little plastic caps that go behind the door handle on the inside seem brittle and splintered along with some other plastic trim pieces. One of the nice things about driving this car is that the stock instrument cluster gauges have been retrocalibrated to work with the chevy motor and transmission. i.e., Tachometer, gas, oil pressure, water temp, volt meter, turn signals, brights indicator, and flip up headlights all work and are accurate. The 'only' gauge that doesn't work is the speedometer, I do not have the cable for that. The car also has 'Weld Racing Draglites' 15x6 fronts and 15x8 rears. The tire are brand new all the way around (less than 400 miles).
PERFORMANCE:
Ive taken the car to a 1/4mile track and was able to make a couple passes (no roll cage). I made one pass on motor and one pass on nitrous, both with slicks (Mickey Thompson 26x8.5). Without slicks, it's pointless cause you'll just do a 1/4mile burnout. On the motor pass, I stalled the car up to 3000rpm and launched. It pulled a 1.53 60ft and went 11.17@120mph. The second pass was a nitrous pass but the car was stalled up to 2300rpm and launched. The nitrous system was activated somewhere between the 60ft to 330ft marker. The car went 10.14 @ 136mph. If I had engaged the nitrous off the starting line, this would have made a very easy 9sec pass. If you look at the two time slips (nitrous vs no nitrous), you can see where the nitrous was activated even though I had a slower 60ft on the nitrous pass. I am only bringing up this point so that the buyers can bid in confidence knowing that this car will not only run the advertised 10sec pass but is actually faster. I got both timeslips and video of these two passes before I had to leave the track. The new owner will be welcome to them if they want.
With all this being said, this car is for sale 'AS IS.' This auction will 'not' end early, has no reserve, and 'WILL' go to the highest bidder. A nonrefundable $1000 is due within 48 hours from the close of the auction and full payment is due within 7 days. Cash is king and that is what I prefer however any other payment for must be clearedby the bank (however long that takes) before the title and vehicle will be transferred over. If you live close or want to make the drive, you are welcome to come look at the car anytime while the auction is going on. If you have any question, feel free to call (two one seven-three nine zero- one two zero eight)
No Warrenty:
This vehicle is being sold as is, where is with no warranty, expressed written or implied. The seller shall not be responsible for the correct description, authenticity, genuineness, or defects herein, and makes no warranty in connection therewith. No allowance or set aside will be made on account of any incorrectness, imperfection, defect or damage. Any descriptions or representations are for identification purposes only and are not to be construed as a warranty of any type. It is the responsibility of the buyer to have thoroughly inspected the vehicle, and to have satisfied himself or herself as to the condition and value and to bid based upon that judgement solely. The seller shall and will make every reasonable effort to disclose any known defects associated with this vehicle at the buyer's request prior to the close of sale.