1974 Jeep CJ-5 232/4.0 Engine D44/14B Axles

1974 Jeep CJ-5 Base Sport Utility 2-Door Additional Info:

PLEASE read the entire description BEFORE bidding.
I will provide the most complete rundown I can of the Jeep's major systems below. If you have any questions about something not mentioned below please feel free to ask. It is available for viewing by appointment only.
Engine / Transmission / Transfer case
The engine is a 1974 232 short block topped with a 1995 4.0 cylinder head, 1995 intake manifold, and 1995 exhaust header. The engine also has an HEI 1 wire distributor and a Motorcraft 2150 carburetor that needs a rebuild. The cylinder head has brand new valves and valve stem seals. The 232 short block has been re-ringed and given new bearings. The camshaft appeared to be in good shape and was left alone, but the lifters had to be replaced with new. The engine will run on fuel in the carb, but it does not have a fully functioning cooling, charging, or fuel system and has NOT been broken in yet. The only issue with the engine is that it has a small oil leak from the back of the engine. I do not know if it is an malfunctioning rear main seal or simply an issue with the oil pan itself. The transmission is a T14 and has a new clutch, Auto Zone house brand. Transfer case is a Dana 20. Can't say much about the transmission/transfer case, they seem to be in working order currently and I was told they "worked great" when I bought them.
***new water pump and alternator
Axles / Steering / Driveshafts
The axles are from a 1973 Blazer, Dana 44 solid front axle and a Full float 14 bolt rear. 4.10:1 gearing both are 8 lug 8x6.5. Ihave not looked inside either axle, based on jacking them up and spinning the wheels both axles are completely open. The axles were both set up for SOA from the factory, they currently have 2" wide perches welded on for SUA, this includes the nodular cast iron housing on the front which was done with pre/post heat, peening, and nomacast welding rods. The 14 bolt has 2 bolts broken off inside the yoke that need to be drilled outThe steering is completely jury rigged on this Jeep, it will make it onto a car hauler but is far fromusable. The drag link is junkyard tie rod ends pressed into thick wall DOM tubing, this goes to the hole on the axle tie rod where the steering stabilizer used to be. In addition to that the steering wheel has no nut to keep it on as the threads were too damaged even to get a die on them. The steering makes pushing/pulling the Jeep around easier, but it has no other use in its current condition. The drive shafts are in good shape, all brand new u joints, the front driveshaft is installed but the rear driveshaft cannot be installed into the 14 bolt yoke, the old strap bolts are broken off inside the yoke and will have to be drilled out. I can include a spare set of cj5 driveshafts if wanted
*** The axles do not have any shocks on them and they don't have any shock tabs on them either
Frame
The Jeep has outboarded springs on it to fit full width axles, which is a permanent modification. The front bumper is integral to the outboarded springs. The frame has no visible cracking and appears to have no rust damage at all. The front bumper is very heavy and fairly large. The bumper was made with an internal frame made of 1/4" and 3/8" thick steel in the center, and then was skinned with 1/8", the wings are made of 1/8" with no internal frame. The clevises are 4 1/2" long and are supported at 2 points. Some of the bumper is bedlined, the area around the clevises has had the bedliner removed for welding. I am including a bottle of raptor liner minus the hardener for the winning bidder to fix that cosmetic issue. The rear bumper is smaller and lighter, made with a mix of 1/4" and 1/8". The only tow point on the rear bumper is the tow hitch. There is paint overspray on both bumpers
Body!
The best part of this jeep in my opinion is the tub. I have pictures of the jeep taken down to bare metal prior to paint to demonstrate the lack of rust and severe body damage that so many of these older CJ's have. The hood is nearly perfect and does not have a drop of bondo on it. The fenders are the worst of the body by far, they are sporting more than a few cracks and several excellent examples of pinhole rust in the front. As shown in the pictures most of the pinholes are welded up or bondoed up, but even with that there are a few pinholes visible on the outside. There is some blunt trauma visibleon the rear of the driver side fender with a little bondo on that too. But that is by far the worst of it, except for a very small amount of rust in the inner wheelwell and some rust in the storage area support channel all the rust has been eradicated in the main tub. The only bondo on the main tub is over areas where metal patches were welded in in order to smooth out the body a little. As you can see in the pictures from underneath the jeep, it bears strong resemblance to a patchwork quilt, but all the rust has been cut out and replaced with metal. The tailgate and windshield frame are both new remans. The main tub is a little bumpy, but it has no major body damage
Paint
The paint on the Jeep is a Rustoleum blue that was sprayed on, very easy and cheap to touch up. That said though, it's not the prettiest paint job, the stuff on this Jeep has some runs in it and even some bedliner overspray around the back. The paint's fine for trails, not so much for car shows
Safety
It has no roll bar and no seat belts. In addition to that the clutch bellcrank system (clutch pedal to clutch fork) is pretty rigged and needs a replacement kit, as the current setup is bolts welded onto a rod that actuates a bellcrank with absolutely no bushings.
Brakes
Doesn't have them fully run. Needs a new rear brake hardline (prop valve to rear soft line) because the Jeep used to have a 8.8 rear end and the soft brake line on that axle takes a smaller thread than the 14 bolt brake line. Other than that the axles need the brakes rebuilt and the proportioning valve needs to be installed.
Engine continued
The engine was setup to run 1995 Jeep XJ fuel injection (OBD1). I've thrown a carburetor on it so I can get it gone but the CPS sensor is in place, and I am including the injector rail along with several feet of high pressure fuel line and an e2000 electric fuel pump that can supply well over 50 psi, as well as a low pressure fuel pump to feed the the high pressure fuel pump. It needs wiring, an ECM, and a 4.0 distributorto make the fuel injection work.
Title
I have a clean title for the jeep. I have not gone to get it officially in my name or signed it.
Miscellaneous
I will include the parts laid out on the ground in the pictures. They include: a good gas tank, wiring stuff, the headlights, new rubber motor mounts, ujoint ubolts for the 14B, fan, new radiator hose, raptor liner, and the speedometer. There's a few items not listed that are on the ground and I also have several core condition parts for the jeep that I will include
The Jeep has no wiring in it other than headlight, distributor, starter and fuel pump circuitsThe Jeep needs the standard cam break in procedure for the new lifters so they can get acquainted with the old cam in addition to the break in for the new ringsNone of the tires or wheels on the Jeep are the same size, but they are half decent rollersThe seats look nice on the outside but their insides are rusted away.Windshield and windshield wipers are not installed or includedJeep has a broken throttle cable. A 1995-1996 xj throttle cable can be used for a replacement


Shipping / Payment
I will work with your shipper but they will have to pick up on a weekend. Ebay makes it very easy to get a shipping quote from a freighter. They'll ask you about the condition of the Jeep and for the purpose of their questions, no it doesn't run and drive, no it doesn't brake, yes it steers, and yes it rolls. Pickup from residential address on a weekend only.
Payment is due in fullwithin 7 days, I will only accept Paypal and cash. There is a $200 deposit duewithin 24 hoursof auction end.