1948 International Pickup Truck 1944 1945 1946 1947 1949 1950 1951 1952 1953

1948 International Harvester Other Additional Info:

1948 International KB1 Survivor Pickup
This is a NO RESERVE auction! Winning bidder gets it! I will not sell it for less than the starting price. I’ll keep it...
If you’re looking for an original truck that you can drive and enjoy this is the one. It needs nothing, she starts right up every time and runs & drives great! This truck gets more thumbs up than my fully restored hot rod...
The first picture is from last summer when I treated the paint with Gibbs metal preservative. Gibbs is used by many hot rodders and shops to preserve the patina of original vehicles (google it if you’re curious). It really brings out the color. I’m happy to apply a fresh coat for the buyer if desired.

The truck has the original flathead 6 in it that runs great! Odometer shows 94K miles and I believe that is correct based on the condition of the truck. I drive this to work regularly (30 miles each way) and sometimes use it for driving to the hardware store. It gets a ton of attention anywhere you take it.
Everything works! Gauges, heater, lights, horn, wipers, etc... All original stainless & chrome trim is still in place. Truck is still 6v as original. I’ve replaced much of the wiring. Push button floor starter works.
Truck has the crank out windshield that works.
Here’s what else has been done to the pickup within the last year:

• New brakes, bearings, and seals all the way around.
• New brake master cylinder, wheel cylinders, and all brake lines replaced.
• New gear oil and gasket in rear end.
• Fuel tank cleaned and new level float installed.
• Adjusted valves.
• Rebuilt carb.
• NOS new distributor.
• Rebuilt fuel pump.
• New points/condenser.
• New cap/rotor, spark plugs & wires.
• Replaced oil seals on the engine (oil pan, valve covers, re-sealed all connections for filter system.
• New voltage regulator.
• New fuel filter .
• New exhaust from the engine back. I had them weld the original rusty tailpipe where it exits the truck so it doesn't look new from outside the truck.
• New oil/filter.
• New windshield, door glass, and seals for all.
• New headliner.
• New reproduction rubber floor mat.
• Seat re-covered in period correct vinyl.
• New battery.
• New metal battery box.
• New tail lights with turn signals front and rear.
• Reconditioned OOGAH horn (my favorite part of the truck)...
• I added seat belts for safety.

I also changed the transmission out to 4 speed T-98 out of an early 60’s International pickup. This upgrade makes the truck much more drivable as the original transmission was not synchronized. Non-syncro transmissions require you to double clutch (like a semi truck). Anyone can drive this truck now with the newer transmission. The original transmission will be included with the truck in case someone wants to convert it back to original again.
The truck is in amazing condition for being 70 years old. Paint is original. Has some light surface rust with a few heavier spots in the lower fenders. All and all though she really is in very good shape.
I did all of the work on the truck so it will be more reliable and safe driving around town but still look like it came off the farm. It runs and drives great but don’t expect to cruise at 70 mph on the freeway. 55 mph is about the max you’ll get out of this old girl. It drives like you would expect an original 70 year old truck would. It rattles and squeaks... They probably did back in 1948 when new as they were designed for gravel roads back then.
If you’re local and want to see it send me a message.
Buyer is responsible for shipping. I’ve used uship online the past with good results. You will have to arrange and pay for any freight charges if not local pickup.
*** I’ve been asked a few times why the truck has 47 plates if it’s a 48. Washington didn’t produce plates in 48 because of the war. They re-used 47 license plates and issued a windshield sticker in 48. I have a reproduction 48 window sticker and the 47 plates will go with the truck if the buyer is from Washington.***
*** Details of the T-98 swap as follows***
I had to take the front shaft collar off of the T-98 and machine 1/8” off the outside diameter so it would fit thru the hole in the original bell-housing. It bolted right up after doing that. I also had to shorten the driveline about 3”. All machining work done professionally and driveline was re-balanced.
The original factory e-brake (type that clamps around the driveline) would not work with the T-98 so I modified the rear brake backing plates to accept 39 ford e-brake levers, then I connected everything with a Lokar e-brake cable system connected to the factory e-brake handle. Works great and still looks factory from inside the truck. The factory IHC brake backing plates are almost identical to the 39 fords making this a pretty easy conversion.
Lastly, I do not have a buy it now price to end the auction early. Thank you!