1991 Ford Probe GL Turbo *No Reserve*

1991 Ford Probe Additional Info:

The time has come to sell my 1991 Ford Probe GL Turbo. I’ve owned this car for 18 years now, and this car has been good to me, and it’s always been an absolute blast to drive.

The Good

It has the factory 2.2 Liter 4 cylinder GL engine (8.6:1 compression) plus the IHI VJ11 Turbocharger, Intercooler, and plumbing from the factory Probe GT models. The engine is still controlled by the factory GL ECU so fuel management is controlled by a Holley FMU, and stays cool with the help of a double thick all copper aftermarket radiator.

· The car has Erebuni bumpers and side skirts made of urethane which is much more flexible and crack resistant than fiberglass.

· The struts are Tokico Blues

· The strut tower bar in the back is manufactured by Mazda and doubles a speaker box hold down to keep it stationary under acceleration.

· The interior is in remarkably good shape for the age of the car.

The Bad

Unfortunately, even with all the good, still comes some bad.

· The factory GL (non-turbo) ECU doesn’t adjust for boost during the first 2-3 minutes of driving until the engine warms up. The result is the car runs a little stumbly during the first 2 to 3 minutes of driving each day, especially if I try to spool the turbo. Keep in mind though, I do drive this car to work and back a few days a week as driving it during the first few warm-up minutes is manageable as long as I drive it reasonably (no boost) for the first few minutes each day. After the first few warm-up minutes, this car runs absolutely flawless, like it was made to be turbocharged, no matter how heavy I am on the pedal.

The car makes kind of a click sound when I push the clutch pedal in. I’ve owned the car for so long that I don’t notice it, but others seem to notice it if it’s their first time riding in the car so I figure it’s worth mentioning even though it has never had any adverse effect on the clutch functionality.

The paint has faded sections on most of the horizontal sections of the car like the roof and hood although the faded paint didn’t seem to show very well in the pictures. The rear bumper has some light scratches, and the front bumper has about a tennis ball sized section down low where the paint is chipped.

· The car has a fair amount of rust as shown in most of the pictures. The most notable rust seems to be around all 4 fender wells and along the bottom of both doors (as shown in the supersize exterior photos) and pretty heavily around the front strut towers (as shown in the supersize engine bay picture).

· The Catalytic Converter is a high-flow and the exhaust is PaceSetter 2 ½” mandrel bent piping and muffler so even though it flows well, it’s also a little noisy. I like it because it’s a deep sounding kind of noisy, but others may not so I thought it might be work mentioning.

· It seems to have a power steering fluid leak somewhere. I don’t know where it's leaking from. I just know that I need to put power steering fluid in it once every 1-2 months. Otherwise, the power steering system works well.

· The air conditioning system is all still installed on the car, but does not work.

· The windshield washer motor/sprayers don’t work.

· The rear defrost doesn’t work.

Odds & Ends

· I very strongly encourage anyone interested in buying this car to come inspect it and take it for a test drive before buying. I don’t mind how long it takes to thoroughly inspect it or have a mechanic inspect it. And I don’t mind how long of a test drive you would like to take to make an informed decision. However, after hearing too many car selling horror stories, I (owner) insist on going along on all test drives or inspections. So it would definitely best to eBay message or email me beforehand to make sure I’ll be home. The best times for me for test drives and inspections are between 3pm – 4pm on weekdays, although I should be available later as well most weekdays, and pretty much any time on weekends. I am located in Dover, Ohio 44622 .

· For payment, I can accept cash, cashier’s check (once cleared), personal check (once cleared), or PayPal if you prefer. If you pay with a check, I will deposit it in the bank before the title is transferred.

· I don’t currently have any intention to ship the car once sold, although I can if I really have to and the buyer pays for and makes all of the arrangements for shipping. This car is one of my daily drivers and the buyer will be able to drive it home or trailer it home if preferred.