1979 Chrysler Lebaron V8 Coupe. Mopar Classic RWD

1979 Chrysler LeBaron Additional Info:

Classic Chrysler "Boattail" coupe. A nice, clean, driver-quality car... one of Mopar's last V8, RWD, "Personal Luxury" cars, wedged between the muscle-era and the FWD craze.
Not a midwestern, Bondo'd- up and repainted rust bucket (no offense... I'm originally from MO), it wears it's original paint as far as I can tell, check the jambs, firewall, and trunk. Oregon, this car's home, uses 0 salt on the roads, EVER. It's solid.
I bought this car 3 yrs ago and it's been a reliable daily driver... always starts (thank you, HEI. The Lean Burn module is strictly window dressing for the emissions zealots and purists), runs, lights-up, signals, stops, etc. The R134-a/c conversion keeps things icy cold inside when it's hot and the new heater core makes sure the heat is on and the windshield stays clear when things get chilly... even the rear window defogger works. Comfy reupholstered tweed interior, new carpet, seals... a comfortable and competent everyday car, some real class and exclusivity for the price of a used-up Hyundai... as an added bonus, the high-buck musclecar (GTO, SS, 'Cuda, Road Runner, GTX, etc. Don't expect much from the Ford guys... they're pretty clique-y) dudes will recognize the profile as something old and throw you a wave or thumbs-up.
I won't bore you with my visions and aspirations for this car (Hint: Firm-Feel F-body auto-cross suspension goodies, 5.9l roller Magnum, blah blah blah). Write your own sleeper legend.
Now the Bum-A-Roo part:I pulled this car out of winter storage for pics and the brake pedal wouldn't return (up). Vacuum is pulling against the booster diaphragm and the front disc flex lines are new, there are no signs of fluid leakage that I can see. I'm in the middle of a cross-state relocation (the reason for the sale) and have 0 time for diagnostics. The brakes work fine (drove the car today) but the pedal does not return as it should. A 4 wheel system bleed is the most likely cure... if I can find time to do that I'll have to relist for my "original" asking price.
In light of the above, instead of trumpeting, "Fly in, DRIVE IT HOME!", I've cut a deep divot into my asking price. It's not a big nor expensive problem but I fully understand the potential hesitation and buzzkill effect of buying a car that's not necessarily Good to Go 100%... if I find time to fix it, I will.I'm a trucker and have been a car hauler, I'll happily accommodate an auto transport company. However, those transportation arrangements and payment of transportation costs are strictly the responsibility of the buyer. If you're local to me (Portland, OR) I would still suggest towing or trailering over driving... its it's own "failsafe" right now, gotta pull the pedal UP at every stoplight/sign/traffic slowdown... quite a dance but the brakes do stop the car, they just won't release until you pull the pedal back up.