1942 Chrysler New Yorker Highlander, Rust Free!! Straight 8, fluid drive!!!
Make: |
Chrysler |
Model: |
New Yorker |
Type: |
Sedan |
Trim: |
Highlander |
Year: |
1942 |
Mileage: |
99,700 |
VIN: |
654321 |
Color: |
Black |
Cylinders: |
8 |
Fuel: |
Gasoline |
Transmission: |
Manual |
Drive type: |
RWD |
Interior color: |
Burgundy |
Drive side: |
Left-hand drive |
Vehicle Title: |
Clear |
Item location: |
Sterling Heights, Michigan, United States |
1942 Chrysler New Yorker Highlander Additional Info:
I am re-listing this due to a non-paying bidder. Any bidder with less than 10 feedback contact me before bidding or I will cancel your bid. A 500 dollar deposit is due IMMEDIATELY after auction ends via PayPal. If you do not have a PayPal account, contact me before bidding. The car must be picked up 10 days from the auction end date. If any of this is a problem, DO NOT BID WITHOUT CONTACTING ME FIRST. My phone number is 586-212-0799, if you have any questions, want more pictures, anything, feel free to call or text. No calls past 10pm Eastern Time please.
Chrysler New Yorker Highlander. Straight 8, runs. Fluid drive trans. I bought it mostly disassembled, the engine was apart, fenders & trim removed, etc. It was a failed restoration project, you know, where someone takes it apart & that's as far as it ever gets? Well, I saved this one from that fate. It's super solid, from Texas. The amount of paperwork I have with this car is astonishing. Clear Michigan title.
The engine was apart when I got it, I honed the block, re-ringed it, ground & lapped the valves, & re-sealed everything. I have two original carbs, one is NOS, but currently it has a more modern 2 barrel on it from a 318.
I went through the brakes, rebuilt the master cylinder, rebuilt the front wheel cylinders, replaced the rear wheel cylinders, new rubber brake lines, and turned the drums. It stops ok, but I've only driven the car around my block a couple times, haven't gone more than 30 mph.
There is no electrical in the car, the generator isn't wired in. It runs off the battery, I put new points & a 12 volt condenser in it. I wired in the starter button and ignition switch, but the solenoids on the trans aren't wired in. It still drives, it just doesn't shift itself, you have to shift it manually.
The body is super solid, the car is from Texas. There's one spot in the trunk that's bad, but that's it.
Interior is kinda rough. Front seat bottom has been recovered, the rest aren't. I have lots of spare interior parts. There's no carpet or headliner, but the bows are there.
Must see to appreciate, could be on the road if you wire it up. The front right glass is cracked, and the right vent window is cracked also. It's all flat glass. The rear axle leaks from the pinion seal.
I have two original radios for the car, a lot of extra pieces of the bake-lite interior trim, brand new sill plates, extra stainless exterior trim, extra rear bumper & guards, extra 1/4 window interior trim, I have the original window cranks, (which are very cool) and lots more parts than what is pictured. I also have the heater valve for the dual heaters.
The only exterior trim I know is missing is the molding that goes on the hood, one rocker panel molding, and the license plate holder for the trunk. There's an old patch on the left rear of the car from an accident it must've been in. It's pictured.
Currently the car is running off a small fuel cell under the hood. The gas tank is in the car, does not leak, the line is clear, but when I hooked it up the pump won't draw from the tank. It draws from the cell fine though, I'm guessing the pump is a little weak. Rebuild kits are available for about 60 dollars on eBay.