1969 Chevrolet Camaro Z/28 - LeMans Blue CE302 Factory M22 Rockcrusher 3.73 Posi

1969 Chevrolet Camaro Additional Info:

1969 Camaro Z/28 LeMans Blue / CE302 Factory M22 Rockcrusher 3.73 Posi

Offered for sale is my 1969 Z/28. I call it a driver survivor – not restored or perfect - but a blast to drive anywhere! I haven’t even washed it in the last couple of years – just dust off and go… Lots of original stuff plus some new, long with a little fluffing…
This car previously belonged to a lifelong friend of mine, anny, ho sadly passed away over a decade ago. The first time I saw this Z was when he called me back in 1980 and wanted me to check it out for him. The car was just brought into California (out of New York I believe) and it was mostly original paint, ll stock and very unmolested at that time. It has remained in this area (within a 50 mile radius) since it first arrived. I do not have any history on the car before 1980. Unfortunately NCRS shipping data reports are not available for Norwood Camaros in this VIN range.

Evidently the original owner blew up the DZ 302 within the first month, nd a warranty replacement block was installed. Danny was an avid drag boat racer, nd into hot rods and motorcycles. Basically he liked things fast, oud and shiny. As such, e ended up chroming many parts under the hood of this car, nd what wasn’t chromed he painted blue – including the engine. Also did the typical black paint on everything under the car, as tank and all, oved the battery to the trunk, tc. This car was always a show winner at many events - Super Chevy Sundays, ood Guys and others, nd a local favorite at Sears Point Raceway in Sonoma as well. Here are some details about the car:
Early Norwood built Z/28; 10A of 1968, 515415 (both hidden VIN’s match). Less than 50K original miles on the car itself. NO FACTORY supporting documents in my possession. Original flat hood car with the factory installed short spoiler package. Has a CE9 302 engine (recently rebuilt), orn-with matching numbers M22 Rockcrusher (not a made up M22) and the original 3.73 Posi.
Most of the body panels are factory original to the car, ther than the two fenders and the cowl hood. Back in the 80’s, ne fender got damaged and Danny went to the Chevrolet dealer and purchased a new one. I believe the fender extension was also replaced. The antenna hole was never punched on the replacement fender and it remains that way. Sometime later the other fender was damaged and also replaced, nd the cowl hood was added as well. It’s an original GM date coded cowl hood, nd I think it may have originally been from another car because it has hood locks installed in the hood but there are no signs of the related hood pins ever being attached to the radiator support.
Some of the paint is original, nd some has been repainted (the front end for sure and the driver’s side quarter panel). Door jambs and inner trunk are original, s well as perhaps the roof and rear sections of the car. There are minor rust bubbles on the bottom of the driver side quarter and door (see photos), ut they are solid. The paint looks great from 10 feet away, ut has the typical age issues you would expect. The pics don't show all the fading, pots, tc. but they are there. There is cracking in the paint on the drivers quarter (see photo) but I don’t believe the quarter was really damaged since there are no signs of any bodywork inside the trunk (which remains unrestored). That repair was done before 1980 and the cracking is probably just due to bad prep and finish work back then and old age. The header panel is original and still has original LeMans blue paint and white stripes under the grill reinforcement. There are still remnants of the original blue paint and factory white out under the cowl area as well. The trunk floor has small pinholes in the lower section but the rest is solid with the original unrestored finish. I added a trunk mat to cover and protect it rather than try any restoration efforts.
All original glass in good condition. Excellent mostly original interior - except for faded carpet (must have been replaced long ago) and the rear package shelf that I installed. Curled dash pad of course. Walnut wheel has separation crack on the bottom. Everything works except for the wipers, lock and reverse lights (no linkage). I have the original wiper arms, ut do not have the wiper blade assemblies. Originally had an AM radio, hich is long gone. I installed a repro radio delete plate because I prefer to listen to the car versus the radio. Exhaust is aftermarket chambered system. Wheels on the car are generic 15 x 7’s, ut included is an AD spare (freshly stripped and ready for paint).
When I got the car it was not running and it sat dormant for the previous ten years before Danny passed away. I recently had the engine rebuilt (roughly $10K) to oem 302 specs, ut with some HD upgrades for strength and longevity. Engine codes: 3932386, ast J 22 8, E936525. The oem crank was not so great, o I purchased a custom ultra-light Scat 302 crank. Went with 6” rods and custom made pistons (.020 over) to achieve a true 11 to 1 CR. Had the heads updated with screw in studs and guide plates, ardened valve seats, tc. Has rollers rockers. Broke the engine in properly on a dyno and did a few light runs achieving about 340 HP. I didn’t care about maxing out the HP, ust wanted it to run great and be strong. Has new replacement carb, on-original dist, epro exhaust manifolds, epro cowl air cleaner assembly, epro deep groove pulleys, tc. Runs like a bat outa-hell……
Still retains its Born-with matching numbers M22 Rockcrusher, hich I freshened when I rebuilt the engine. Stamped P9P12, N515415, etal trans tag shows 3950318. The internals were in very good unrestored original shape, ut I replaced second and third gear since it was apart anyway. Still have the original gears that came out of it. Rear end is internally original and has not been retored, ther than some cosmetics, xle bearings and brake parts.
I had to undo all of the blue and chrome customizing effects that Danny did under the hood, nd detail the bottom of the car as well. Tried to duplicate the factory look but wasn’t trying to do a 100% factory oem resto. Had to remove the front end for those efforts, o I detailed the subframe and replaced all the bushings, all joints, ubframe bushings, rake lines, ire harnesses, tc. at the same time. Everything is still fresh with less than 5K miles on it at this point in time. I kept most of the original parts that were not restored or reinstalled, nd they are included with the car.

Original parts not installed but included with the sale:
Front calipers (unrestored), rake booster (painted black), ate coded gas tank (painted black and scuffed on bottom but still good), ate coded Hurst shifter body (I installed the oem handle assembly in a new shifter that doesn’t use the rubber inserts on the rod ends so it shifts much better), ate coded radiator (I ran it until recently and it worked fine, ut replaced it with a new repro to feel more reliable), anual steering box (I upgraded to P/S, oincidentally with correct date coded items), aster cylinder cover (chromed), eep groove harmonic balancer and water pump pulleys (chromed), 708 harmonic balancer (painted blue), orn cap (wouldn’t stay on the repro horn contact I installed), on-cowl air cleaner base (I used the lid on my other Z), 22 2nd and 3rd gears and internal parts, nd probably more oem items that I can’t think recall at the moment.
The personal California license plates are not included (unless you convince me otherwise).

I highly recommend you inspecting the car in person, r have someone inspect it for you, rior to purchasing it. There is no way my description and pictures can provide all the details you need to make a good purchase decision.

Any and all shipping arrangements are to be made by the buyer. I am willing to drop off the car in a nearby location if that is helpful. The car can stay at my place for a short time if necessary while you make shipping arrangements, ut must be paid for in full within 3 days of auction end. Serious buyers only, o refunds on deposits if you fail to complete the deal.

Please email me with your questions and I will try to respond as quickly as possible.
Thanks for taking the time to read my listing!

Additional info added:

The car sits nice and low up front. The springs (front and rear) are the original ones that were on the car when I got it. I've been running 245/60/15's all the way around since I got the car running. The fronts always rubbed a little in turns so I just replaced them this week with one size smaller, 35/60/15. They seem to clear nicely and no more rubbing issues that I've noticed so far. So just to be clear, he rears have about 5K miles on them and the fronts are brand new this week.

Couple more items about the Z:

I just took the car out for one last Cars and Coffee adventure as well as to make sure everything was working fine. Drove about 60 miles and all is well but there are a couple details I wanted to mention (don’t want to hide anything).

When you hit 75MPH the shifter starts to rattle a little which reminded me that when I built the car 5K miles ago, never had the front end aligned. It drove so nice when I put it together that I never got around to it. I’m old and slow and rarely hit that speed, o I forgot to mention that in my listing.

Also, he car has always had a little “clunk” noise in the right rear trunk area that I’ve never bothered to figure out. Mostly when you hit bumps or turns, t sounds similar to a shock absorber clunk (but the shocks were new when I put the car together, o it shouldn’t be them). It might be the trunk lid moving a little. I believe the trunk seal is original and squished down and the trunk lid does not have the little rubber bumpers on the corners.

Thanks for the emails and interest !

IMPORTANT AUCTION UPDATES:

FYI – I just lowered the BIN price. The reserve is $44K and I am sharing this info because people keep emailing me and asking what the reserve is.

I’m pretty sure the car will sell this week, hether through Ebay or otherwise, hich doesn’t make a difference to me. I do not wish to play any bidder games and being the high bidder who does not hit the reserve doesn’t mean anything. If you have a significant interest in the car than think seriously about pursuing it now because it may not be available for very long.

Once again, lease be a serious buyer with all your funds in place and ready to pay for the car in full immediately. As I stated before, he car can be safely stored in my garage for a short period of time, ut must be paid in full regardless of when you pick it up.

Just to be clear, f you are the winning bidder this is not a chance for you to inspect the car after the auction and decide if it meets your approval. You must inspect the car before your agree to purchase it. We can put it up on a lift at my house and you can look it over as thoroughly as you wish.

Thanks again for checking out my listing.