Make: | Chevrolet |
Model: | C/K Pickup 1500 |
SubModel: | Flatbed |
Type: | Standard Cab Pickup |
Trim: | Scottsdale |
Year: | 1976 |
Mileage: | 154,000 |
VIN: | CKL146F346793 |
Color: | White |
Engine: | 350 |
Cylinders: | 8 |
Fuel: | Gasoline |
Transmission: | Manual |
Drive type: | 4WD |
Interior color: | Gray |
Vehicle Title: | Clear |
Item location: | Sedalia, Colorado, United States |
1976 Chevy K10 short bed 4x4 truck.
Nada Guides current retail value estimate, in stock form: $6,150 – 12,650
http://www.nadaguides.com/Classic-Cars/1976/Chevrolet/C10/Pickup-1-2-Ton-Fleetside-Shortbed/Values
But, I also know that you can usually find a “fairly clean body”, bone stock K10 truck on Craigslist for roughly $4000 - $6000, any day of the week. So in that respect, I’ve settled on a modest $5000 starting figure in my pricing structure listed below.
This big truck drives great on the street AND on the trails, and was built with a focus on offroad performance AND being able to drive to/from the trails over Colorado mountain passes. And it does all of that and still looks like a clean, classic Chevy truck.
I have itemized all of the following add-on parts and their current retail prices to show the buyer what it costs to build this particular truck to what it is today. The prospective buyer who is familiar with these parts and modifications, is the one who is going to appreciate this effort. Some of these parts are 6 years old now, and some are only a month old, but everything has very low mileage (approx. 2000-3000 total miles, with some parts only having 100 miles on them!). All of the wearable parts like brakes, tie rod ends, u-joints, all the fluids, belts, and hoses are all practically NEW, and have been very well maintained during their life. Every old, crusty body mount, engine mount, transmission mount, and suspension bushing has been replaced with new polyurethane parts for better durability and performance than replacement rubber. This classic Chevy 4x4 truck has a ton of heavy duty upgrades, and has conquered many difficult/extreme Moab and Colorado trails, some even in 2wd! Its built for the trails, and will also pound the pavement on the way to the trails.
Here is the "short story" of this truck’s specifications:
1976 Chevy K10 “Scottsdale” short bed
For those who like to read, here is the “long story” of the build:
Steering
Offroad Design Crossover Steering system $554
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/Dana60crossover.htm
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/Dana60CrossoverKits.htm#GM_GM
Offroad Design PSC Hydraulic Assist Steering system $1184
Includes an Extreme Duty PSC steering box ported for hydraulic assist lines, assist cylinder with hose kit, brand new high output pump with reservoir can on the pump and a filtered remote reservoir for greater fluid capacity and cooling. With one finger, I can spin my steering wheel at a dead stop and turn the 42” tires stop to stop. Its effortless on the trail as well. http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/PSCsteering.htm
PSC Tie rod clamp for hydraulic assist $40
A great way to attach a Hydraulic Assist Cylinder to the Tie Rod that still lets you adjust the Toe alignment setting, versus welding tabs to the Tie Rod. http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/HDsteeringlinkage.htm#112TieRods
Heavy Duty Tie Rod $115
1-1/2" x .375" wall http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/HDsteeringlinkage.htm
with ORD Built Heavy Duty Tie Rod Ends $95
Offroad Design Frame Repair and Brace kit $209
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/steeringkit.htm
The frame was never cracked to begin with, but I made sure it never would be by installing both pieces. One of the first modifications I made!
Suspension
DIY4X HD 6” front shackles $30
http://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17710&cat=250&page=3
DIY4X B52 front leaf spring hangers (for 52” long leaf springs) $179
http://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17714&cat=250&page=1
Offroad Design Front Upper Shackle Hangers$159
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/FUSH.htm
Offroad Design greasable polyurethane bushings and hardware everywhere $200
Offroad Design 2.5” Shackle Flip brackets $189
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/shacklekit.htm
DIY4X USDR 6” rear shackles $96
http://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17708&cat=250&page=4
Bilstein 5125 shocks with 14” of travel $360
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/shocks.htm
Offroad Design front shock towers $56
Offroad Design 4.5” Competition Style Bumpstops $60
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/bumpstops.htm
DIY4X weld-on Adjustable Bumpstop brackets$65
http://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17758&cat=250&page=1
Offroad Design U-bolt Reversal kit $87
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/uboltreversal.htm
Offroad Design Rear Shock Brace $50
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/RearShockBrace.htm
Brakes
Offroad Design Extended Braided Stainless Brakelines $127
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/braidedbrakelines.htm
Offroad Design Braided Stainless Brakelines for rear disc brake conversions $89
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/discbrakelinekits.htm
DIY4X Disc Brake Conversion brackets $70
http://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17678&cat=246&page=1
· Napa stock replacement GM ¾ ton front calipers and pads $170
Axles
GM Dana 60 front axle $1600
“New Old Stock” (NOS) Military Surplus M1008 (still in wooded crate when I purchased it), with factory-installed 4.56 gear ratio and open differential. This axle was brand new when I bought it, and now has only 2000-3000 miles on it. The “break-in” gear oil has already been changed after the proper “break-in period” and now contains Valvoline Full Synthetic gear oil.
DIY4X Dana 60 Flatback Differential Cover with Hydraulic Assist Ram Mount option $131
http://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17742
http://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17799&cat=249&page=1
Warn premium locking hubs $270
GM Corp. 14 bolt Full Floating rear axle $1400
Completely rebuilt with all new bearings and seals, 4.56 Yukon “thick” gears, master install kit, Detroit Locker, and 1410 u-joint yoke. All from Randy’s Ring and Pinion with Extended Warranty. The “break-in” gear oil was changed after the proper “break-in period” and now contains Valvoline Full Synthetic gear oil.
DIY4X Flatback Differential Cover $105
http://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17679&cat=247&page=2
DIY4X Guardsman Pinion Guard $74
http://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17740&cat=247&page=2
Driveshafts (a.k.a. Drivelines)
Front High Angle Driveline custom 1410 CV driveline. (all 1410 series u-joints)$1500
I spent the money on this particular driveshaft because of the extensive suspension travel from the front suspension, which uses 6” lifted 52” rear GM springs. The previous custom front driveshaft quickly ran out of slip and u-joint operating angles, and cracked the front case half of the previous NP241 case I had built. (I rebuilt the NP241 with a donor case in February 2016). Rather than re-engineering my entire suspension setup that already worked so well, this current driveshaft solved the problems all at once. I haven’t found a heavier duty driveshaft available anywhere!
http://www.highangledriveline.com/38cv.html
Rear Rocky Mountain Driveline 1350 CV at the t-case, and a 1410 u-joint at the rear axle $350
Transfer Case
New Process 241 (NP241C) $1200
Completely rebuilt with all new bearings, bushings, seals, oil pump pickup, Borg Warner chain, new speedometer "driven" gear and housing to correct speedometer reading for tire size and axle gear ratio, plus a Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) kit from JB Conversions with 1350 rear output flange. The NP241C transfer case has a low range ratio of 2.72 to 1. -This is the same model of transfer case found in the Jeep Rubicon, but without the 4:1 low range ratio.
http://www.jbconversions.com/products/sye/np241c_j_std_sye.php
http://www.jbconversions.com/products/np241/rebuild.php
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151652900007?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Energy Suspension Polyurethane Transmission Mount $69
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/transfercasemounts.htm
Transmission
GM Muncie SM465 $500
Swapped from a TH350 to this transmission.
-168 tooth GM flywheel
-Centerforce II clutch
-Factory GM hydraulic clutch bellhousing
-Stock replacement pilot bearing, hydraulic clutch line, master cylinder, and slave cylinder.
No “retro-fit” parts on this assembly; all stock replacement parts that are readily available at parts stores anywhere in the country. The SM465 is a non-overdrive, 4-speed manual transmission. More info here: https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/manual/sm465/
The “Low” gear is a non-synchronized “granny gear” with a 6.55 to 1 ratio. -That gear isn’t suitable for regular street use (you have to shift from it too quickly, and by then, you’re rolling a bit too fast to then shift into true “1st gear”). But Low gear is great for offroad on technical obstacles, or if you just need to go really slow. I rarely need to use “granny gear”. With the transfer case shifted into Low Range, and the transmission in Low gear (Crawl Ratio), I can step out of the truck and can hardly walk SLOW enough next to it. The crawl ratio is 81 to 1. For comparison, the stock “crawl ratio” was a miserable 19:1. Driving offroad with a 19:1 ratio and automatic transmission meant that I had my foot on the brakes whenever descending, and I was on the throttle whenever ascending any obstacle. That is NOT the case anymore! The SM465 and NP241 provide much more control offroad than the stock TH350 and NP203 setup. Now, at the trailhead, I can shift it into 4Lo, and leave it there the entire trail. Simply select an appropriate gear in the transmission and go for it!The SM465 and NP241 are a great combination.For gearheads, you can see the math by checking out this calculator here: http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
This truck will drive 70 mph at just over 2500 rpm (I’ve driven it up to 80 mph), and I can still crawl on the technical trails, idling along at a SLOW 100 feet per minute. This is a great combination of gearing in the right places, great control offroad, and yet it still allows you to cruise on the highway with traffic at an acceptable engine rpm.
Engine
Chevy 350
-Mild RV cam
-Hooker Comp full length headers
-Walker stock replacement mufflers (not “quiet” by modern vehicle standards, but as quiet as I could make a classic truck without extra restrictive parts like catalytic converters, stock exhaust manifolds, and resonators). –This truck’s VIN never required catalytic converters for emissions testing, by the way. The exhaust has a nice rumble, but not annoyingly loud or crackly at all.
-Sean Murphy Industries (SMI) Rochester Quadrajet carburetor $500
The "next best thing" to EFI, as far as carburetors go offroad. Easy to tune, reliable, and doesn’t require a laptop. A HUGE upgrade to the Edelbrock carb that was on before it! This carburetor is tuned for 6000 feet above sea level. I just got back from an offroad trip to Ouray, Colorado; where some of the trails were at nearly 13,000 feet above sea level, and the SMI carb performed great. Plainly said, this truck starts every single time, and doesn’t choke and stall out when its twisted up on the trails.
https://www.smicarburetor.com/products/sfID1/14/sfID2/9/sfID3/108/productID/47
Stock GM HEI distributor
AC Delco distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and wires
· Powermaster 140 amp alternator $184
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-47295/overview/year/1976/make/chevrolet/model/k10
· Dual X2Power Premium Dual Purpose batteries (American Made) $580
https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/sli35agmdp
· All new(er) battery cables $100
· Engine belts were replaced in 2015
· Radiator and Heater hoses (AC Delco) were replaced in 2016
· Radiator was flushed, and new thermostat installed in 2016
· DIY4X competition polyurethane engine mounts $105
http://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17692&cat=252&page=1
Flatbed $1000
The structural frame of the flatbed was built with 2x3 0.120 wall square tubing. The outer “rails” or “walls” were built with 6” 0.120 wall flat stock. Fully welded. The wood floor is just common pressure treated 2x6 boards. The size of the flatbed is still 6.5 feet long, just like the stock short bed that came off, and the width matches the width of the truck cab. The LED light panel was built from aluminum diamond plate, and the lights are all Trucklite LEDs. All of the electrical connections were made with marine heat-shrink crimps, and then addition shrink tube over it. The tail/turn signals don’t flash “rapidly”, like some LED conversions I’ve seen. They flash normally, as the stock lights would. The reverse lights are bright, as is the hidden license plate light.
Toolbox $500
All of the items you see in the toolbox: spare parts, spare oil and fluids, Warn winch recovery bag, hand tools and tool bag, etc. goes with the truck! These are all just essentials and spare parts/fluids for the trails.
Viair Dual 444C Onboard Air System $650
http://www.viaircorp.com/oba-dual444C.html
Great for allowing you to air the tires back up at the end of the trail. But also has many more uses. The system’s air manifold still has 4 more taps remaining for you to plumb in additional air accessories such as: ARB air locker(s), air horn, additional air line leads, etc.
Hi-Lift Xtreme 60” jack $150
Includes 4xRAC mounting system, jack cover, and jack handle isolator
Tires and Wheels
Pitbull Rocker Radial 41.5x13.50R17 (x5) $2767
The tires might have 2000 miles on them, and I’ve already rotated them twice (using a 5 tire rotation pattern) to ensure that all 5 tires continue to wear evenly, since they see extra wear on the trails. By rotating all 5 tires, you increase overall tire life by 20%.
Tires are all balanced internally with Dynabeads: http://www.innovativebalancing.com and they have zero vibrations on the road, even at 75 mph. The tread on all 5 tires is wearing evenly.
Raceline “Monster” aluminum beadlock wheels (x5) $1740
17x9.5 with 4” backspacing
These are real beadlocks, not fakes. No air pressure leakage from them, even when they sit all winter long. I’ve had my tires aired down to 5 psi with these wheels and have never lost a bead.
Body and Extras
Winch $700
I just installed a new Warn VR 10,000 winch, and mounted it to a vintage Warn “Transformer” Brush Guard/Winch mount (which are quite difficult to find anymore). The Warn winch hasn’t even had a single pull on it. The cable has only pulled and re-spooled with a load on it (per the Warn instructions), and it hasn’t been operated since.
Seat $200
The 40/60 split bench seat is from a 1996 Chevy Silverado pickup. The seat frame out of 1” 0.120 wall square tube, fully welded, and utilized the newer seat slider assembly to keep the seat slider function and also the old seat’s mounting feet to bolt the seat into the stock locations on the floor. Both the driver and passenger seat have electric lumbar adjustability (not wired). These seats are MUCH more comfortable than the stock bench seat, with the individual slider function, lumbar adjustment, and headrests.
Gas Tank $500
I ditched the troublesome stock dual “saddle” 16 gallon gas tanks in favor of a new 31 gallon K5 Blazer gas tank from MTS Company, which has a built in “sump” at the bottom of the tank, should you ever decide to convert over to EFI. Two custom crossmembers made out of 2x3 0.120 wall tube position and secure the gas tank, and also adds strength/rigidity to the otherwise “flexy” ½ ton frame. The filler neck assembly is new, as are the filler and vent hoses.
http://www.mtscompany.com/chevy-gmc.htm
http://www.fillernecksupply.com
All the Good… and now the Bad and Ugly
The factory color on the build sheet was Light Green. Sometime in its life, the truck was repainted solid white. The ONLY “bad thing” I can say about this ENTIRE truck is the body rust. No, it isn’t rotted to the point that its unsafe, like some trucks I’ve seen. The rocker panels have started to rust, and the passenger side rocker panel front “ear” that attaches to the lower corner of the passenger fender has nearly rotted away. (The rocker panel should eventually be replaced). The driver side fender has a rust hole in the bottom corner. The rear cab corners have started to rust also, as they commonly do. -All very common rust spots on this 40 year old truck. I’m fairly certain that the passenger fender is aftermarket, as it has never quite fit correctly. I’ve tried to adjust it and its never fit “correct” like the driver side does. The old hood had a rust hole in the front that I could fit a finger through. So I found a clean replacement hood, and painted it white with Rustoleum to match the rest of the truck color. The new hood is what is you see.
This vehicle is also being listed locally, and I reserve the right to end this auction at any time.
Thanks for looking and happy bidding!