1972 BMW 3.5 4 speed E3

1972 BMW Bavaria Additional Info:

Regretfully selling my 1972 BMW Bavaria. The previous owner put a significant amount of money into the car. I can refer you to the mechanic who worked on it for its history. I have used it as a daily driver at times for up to 3-4 weeks, it is definitely a fun car.
It has a clean title and is currently registered in my name. I bought proper year blue plates for it, awaiting final registration paperwork. The car is legally insured and registered to drive as is.
A 3.5 liter engine from a 1991 BMW 735i (Head # 1708843 Block # 40094567 34 6K B) was installed (mileage unknown) and I believe the clutch was replaced at that time as well. It has dual weber carbs with less than 5k on them and the later style upward-facing oil filter housing. They I also added a Carter 4070 electric fuel pump and relay, new filter, boiled and resealed the fuel tank and added a pertronix electric ignition kit and coil. The starter solenoid was sticking, but I had the starter rebuilt and the solenoid replaced. I just installed it and the solenoid no longer hangs up when actuated.
It has a rough idle which, when I pulled the plugs for the compression test (results below) found that the #1 plug was fouled. As it turns out, the spark plug wire was faulty. I have ordered new plug wires, a cap and rotor. They should arrive by 4/26 and will install them before the car is picked up, probably on the same day the parts arrive. The original Zenith carbs will come with the car (It is mandatory that they leave, I definitely don't want them). A new battery was installed about a year ago.
Compression test results
1 - 181
2 - 175
3 - 170
4 - 160
5 - 162
6 - 161
I held the throttle open while I cranked it over and disconnected the fuel and spark sources. It isn't a new engine, but still has great power and accelerates well. I expect it to be even better with the new ignition components. There are NGK Platinum plugs in there now (gapped 0.32 per mfg spec), but I bought a set of Bosch copper OEM plugs for it. I will include them with the car if I do not change them out, as the NGK's looked fine.
It seems to emit blue smoke on deceleration in gear and only when above about 3000 rpm's. I believe that a valve adjustment and fixing the misfire will help. It accelerates smoothly with good power. Both the main Bosch filter in the trunk and the small inline filter have been replaced recently. I did notice a significant uptick in power when I replaced the fuel tank. When I had the fuel tank boiled and sealed, I cleaned and prepped the mounting "lip" for the fuel tank, putting on rust inhibitor (although there really wasn't anything significant, I have photos), I also installed weather stripping around the perimeter before reinstalling the tank.
It was an AC car, compressor and condenser are removed but come with the car, looks like all the piping and other AC components are present.
The 4 speed transmission shifts well and pulls strong. No grinds, no pop outs.
It doesn't leak oil, coolant, transmission/differential, brake/clutch or power steering fluid.
It doesn't overheat, stays between the two hash marks. Looks like the radiator was recorded and painted fairly recently.
Power steering system is in good shape, the steering wheel turns smoothly and doesn't leak. No clunky or odd noises.
Tires are in good shape, they were new a few years ago when the engine was replaced and all the other work was done. Tread (not "thread" as I see on so many Craigslist posts) is probably at about 80-90%. Rides well, handling isn't sloppy, but may not be what it was when it was new. Definitely safe, I have driven it on long trips at freeway speeds. No clunking or strange noise while driving though. Wheels are in good shape, but the trim rings have their share of dents and dings, overall they are pretty presentable.
The braking system was replaced with a more modern setup (no huge, bulky power brake booster, this one is a more modern pancake-style. No vacuum leaks from it. It brakes firmly and feels good, but it does pull to the left a little. Seems like the right caliper is sticking a bit. They is some squeaking when you pull up to a stop, but nothing out of the ordinary for these cars. Parking brake works. I have ordered replacement calipers and front pads. I expect them in on 4/25 the latest, will install them and bleed the system.
Clutch hydraulics are firm and shifts well, I noticed that the slave cylinder had started to leak a bit when sitting. I ordered a new Bavaria-sized Slave cylinder (not cheap) for it and installed it yesterday. No more leaks and the pedal feels nice and firm.
Body and paint are presentable for a driver, the paint is cracking and flaking on the roof, but looks pretty shiny everywhere else with the exception of a few places where it is peeling in small spots near the back passenger door.The only rust i've seen is at the base of the c-pillars and it isn't bad, no rust through. There are three small spots where the belt molding clips fit on, but again, not too big of a deal. Aside from a tiny spot near the antenna, and a little corrosion under the front of the hood, that's about it. All the typical problem areas; front and rear shock towers, floor boards, rocker panels, leading edge of hood and trunk, underside of the doors, a pillars, bottoms of fenders and wheel arches/doglegs are solid.
I believe it has only been painted once and is the same/close to the original dark blue color.
Interior is in good to great shape for its age. It does have some cracks in the dash, as nearly all of them do, steering wheel has some cracking as well, headliner is pretty clean with no rips or holes or discoloration, carpets are a bit worn but pretry presentable. Tan vinyl seat's are presentable as well, with the rear seat headrests looking the worst being dried, cracked and broken, having borne the brunt of the SoCal heat. (apparently it was owned by some German photographer on Sunset before the previous owner) I replaced the driver's side "horseshoe" vynil on the lower part of the seat and recently the passenger side horseshoe cracked on a cold morning when I put some weight on it with my palm.
Electrics are all in working order with the exception of the A/C, clock (I have a replacement clock and bezel. If desired, I will include them with the car) and the Radio (missing) someone also put speakers in the doorpanels. All windows roll up and down just fine. I replaced the hazard switch, directional signals and headlights/brights work fine, all "dummy" lights on the dash work fine. Speedometer works, odometer doesn't. Blower works fine. Door locks need some lubrication. I believe the rear defroster works (button illuminates), but I have not used it to defog the window. It does have a problem staying back in once pushed, so a piece of paper is currently assisting it staying off. Wipers and window washers work well (including the variable speed).
This car has the cleanest and most complete trunk of the three 3's I've owned. All of the tire change tools appear to be present, along with the original spare. The box on the right side and the plastics that cover the rear shock towers. I started to remove them for photos, but didn't want to damage them as they are getting brittle. The tool kit is mostly if not all complete, but the casing is cracked and broken. The foam and tools are all in pretty good shape and I believe I have the latch assembly as well. The trunk carpet is in good shape but could use a washing, the trunk panels are in good condition overall, but the side panels do have some wear on them. The wheel well is totally rust free with original paint. There is a plastic bottle on the top right side of the trunk that is in good shape, but I don't know what its purpose is. The mounting bolt for it is missing.
On 4/17 I was at the same mechanic who did all the previous work on the car, finding out how much some of the current issues would cost to fix, mainly the valve adjustment and/or valve guide replacement would cost when some dumbass in a pickup backed into the passenger rear corner. It is minor damage.
I will include the shop manuals pictured as well.
That same mechanic wants to buy it, but doesn't currently have the room. He knows old bmw's very well and told me what he thought it was worth. I'd prefer to sell it sooner, like in the next week, as there is an E24 I have my eye on, but not in any real rush. I am a bit flexible on the price but not a huge amount. Like I said, I can sell the car to the mechanic or one of his customers if I wait a little longer. I'd just like the money by Thursday (4/26) or Friday (4/27) at the latest so I can buy something I want more.
This would be a great car for someone who has had these cars in the past or wants to keep this for awhile and fix it up. The values are climbing, albeit slowly.
Thanks for reading. Feel free to call/text me at 818.385.5796 anytime with questions or additional photo requests (I have more, but I reached Ebay's limit). I have a transporter that can delivery the car. I have used him a couple times already and he is great to deal with and has affordable prices.
I have listed this car locally and reserve the right to end the auction at any time.